Sunday, September 18, 2005

Oh Leh Oh Leh Oh Leh!

Managed to get a flight out of Delhi (just in time as trees are falling, sewers collapsing and strange diseases have started to surface). The security checks for the flight to Leh were incredible, where the bags are triple checked and so were we. Once aboard, we all felt some relief that the winds had eased and as the plane took off, none of us were too upset to see the back of Delhi. Shortly into the flight the skies cleared and we were met with the most awesome sight any of us have had the privilege to see before.

Against the bluest skies, the Great Himalayan range rose above the clouds to greet us. Tevo said he will remember it for the rest of his life. I think we were flying over the Zanskar mountains, moonscape valleys drizzled with icing sugar snow. The approach into Leh airport was slightly unnerving, as the wing of the plane appeared to just miss the mountain as the pilot took a sharp left down to the runway. But what a sight!

We headed for the Bimla hotel and have ourselves a lovely room with a shared rooftop veranda. Here we met Paulo & Luca from Milan who were only staying one night before heading straight off for some serious trekking back towards Manali. The boys must be mad! Already we all felt a little odd and within a few hours, altitude sickness was starting to creep up on us. This is the first time I have been able to concentrate since arriving. It's like an overwhelming lethargy and incredible thirst, with a slight headache (that vanishes once you take paracetamol). But the heavy limbed, heavy headed and super tiredness continues. We slept for most of the day yesterday and then went out for a little walk and some food. We were aslepp again by 10pm and didn't wake until after 10am today. To be honest, I could just sleep all the time just now. But am determined to reset my body clock and adjust to the altitude. It's a little frustrating as you can see some of the amazing 'gompas' from our veranda, with their streams of prayer flags beckoning in the wind. However, just walking up the hills here in the town is an effort. Once you eat something, it becomes doubly hard. I think we may collapse if we tried to go much higher. Tomorrow, we are going to try to climb the 500 or so steps up to the old palace. The children are coping well, and have already written up the story of how Ganesh came to have the head of an elephant in their journals.

Roisin says I am to tell you it is much nicer here than Delhi aand that the hotel is lovely and we have nice views. Tevo says he's very happy in the mountains and wants to go on a trek as soon as possible. He may have to be patient. I think we need to rest for a few more days and then we can tackle some 'baby' treks.

This afternoon I met a lovely couple called Richard (from Derby) and Anya (from Belgium) in a local co-op (where you can refill your water bottles with pressure boiled water for 10p!). They also do eco-laundry where they wash your clothes well away from the water courses. It's a very impressive set up. Rich and Anya gave me the lowdown on where to eat (Tevo has been pining for salad but I have refused to let him eat any yet) and they also gave me lots of advice on little treks (mind you, Richard would have us toddling off into Kashmir proper if I took all his advice ;) Great food tho. A little Tibetan place just round the corner from our guesthouse - yum yum yum! And Tevo got to have the biggest salad I'd ever seen filled with fresh local organic produce.

The Ladakhi's are the friendlist and most unassuming people. They are so welcoming and kind to the children, and not 'in yer face' like the many Delhi-ites. The local kids are amused at seeing such young Europeans toddling thru town. And Tevo and Roisin are amused by the cows and donkeys that wander aimlessly around town. Tomorrow we are going to buy them some carrots.

I guess I should sign off now (am a little reluctant as it took me 20 mins to sign in). Hope all is well at home. For now, we are happy in Ladakh :-) xxxx

4 Comments:

At 12:32 pm, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Oh you lucky devils! It sounds like you are well off out of Delhi, and have found yourselves a really top spot. Good to hear you have managed to find a good salad, Tevo - I always crave salads when I'm away too. I hope the altitude sickness passes soon and you can fully enjoy your spectacular surroundings.

Missing you all lots,
c xx

 
At 1:44 pm, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi gang, sounds like you are having loads more fun now you have left smelly Delhi.

Paying 10p for your water is probably a lot easier than pumping it through the filter every time you need a top-up.

Perhaps Tevo or Roisin could tell us how Ganesh got his Elephant's head.

Hope you are all well

J x

 
At 10:27 pm, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi
Sound like your adventure has begin. We all miss you
Amanda

 
At 8:14 am, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey J,
I'm officially jealous! Have a cool time and if you get anywhere remotely near Aus call me and we will see if we can meet up (assuming that is, that my residency nonsense is sorted out and i can actually leave the country :)
x

 

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