Chillin' in Manali

Manali is colourful and laid back and incredibly green after all that desert. With the good weather that seems to be following us, we are thinking about whether we should stay around for the Kullu festival in two weeks time – a pretty spectacular one by all accounts.

The food is so good here, we could just eat all day long, which makes up for the appetite loss and accordant weight loss experienced in Ladakh. We may go to Dharamsala next – about a 7 hr bus ride. Piece of cake after Leh to Manali slog. We’re all pretty healthy at the moment and the children are starting to appreciate the highs and lows of traveling, a kind of no pain, no gain attitude, especially when it comes to very big mountains (and even hotel rooms on the top floor!).

I do think we have bagged the best family room in Manali too. Halfway up to Old Manali overlooking John Banan’s Orchard, we’ve got a great view, peace and quiet (when some Israeli’s aren’t partying in a nearby hotel!) and a cracking room. Two big double rooms, lounging area, big big balcony and two bathrooms (tho one the toilet works but the rest doesn’t and vice versa). It’s kind of amusing that the shower comes on when you turn the basin tap, and that despite a decent bath suite, none of it works but we have piping hot ‘mandi’ water and it is incredibly efficient on saving water. It’s costing us under 9 pounds a night, which is actually expensive as there are decent rooms in Old Manali for less than 2 quid. The absence of any balcony railings on upper floors is a slight drawback for those with children, and perhaps those who may have been sampling too many of the local wares.

We’ve been starting the day with fruit breakfasts; which Tevo and Roisin choose the night before from the markets. This morning we had pomegranates, apples, bananas, pineapple, coconut and a strange mini melon type fruit that only Lee liked. It cost about a quid for the lot. We usually go for thali early afternoon. We now know to ask for the separate thali and dosa menu at these places, not the tourist pizza strangeness that’s on offer. Even T&R have decided they don’t like pizza anymore and that it’s best to stick with local food, unless of course, it’s one of the fabulous german bakeries – they definitely get that right. An added bonus being that you can actually eat really well for less than 2 quid a day (Caroline, it's about 40 rupee for the best dahls, currys, breads and pickle you've ever tasted).

Unfortunately I have yet been unable to find an equivalent to Dsomza, the co-operative water bottle refill place; amongst other worthy activities like collected old batteries and plastic, eco-laundry {that’s at least 200m away from mountain water sources}, very strange Leh berry juice {which fizzes explosively if you leave it in your water bottle going over high passes}, dried fruit and nuts {staple diet of any good trekker} and also distributing unwanted clothes and shoes to people in need. I can picture a village child skipping to school (and believe me they do skip over the most unbelievably steep and high passes) in a brand new pair of gortex Berghaus boots that Roisin managed to outgrow before we even arrived.
Comparing equipment for a moment, I have to say that although you can buy very cheap goods here, there is a marked difference. Tevo’s boots (inherited from Roisin) kept his feet dry and ankles safe whilst falling off rocks crossing gushing streams, whereas Roisin’s, well they’re just a bit pants really.

We went for a forest walk yesterday and then up Old Manali. Imagine shabby but very charming and a lot quieter than down in main street. I spotted a Tibetan café so plan to return later for some scrumptious momos and noodle soup. This afternoon we plan to take it easy. The children have done some excellent school work this last week (they even practiced their times tables in the jeep from Leh).

Hope the new photos have loaded okay. I'm off for some thali :-) Shanti shanti xxxx