Fort Cochin

We all go for a fancy dinner at The Old CourtYard and Tevo gets to eat his favourite Greek Salad. It's a really pretty little town, very Catholic, super friendly (I'm picking up on Canadian phrases hanging out with Maya - I caught myslef saying 'neat' the other day) and lots to see and do. Everyone is much happier.

Staying at Park Avenue Hotel (400 rups for a nice double with balcony, overlooking terracotta tiled houses and the sounds of hymn practice from the local school). This is the place of the famous Chinese fishing nets, where you can watch them hawl in their catches at sunset. They're huge and it takes 4 or 5 of them to raise and lower them. Just beautiful to watch. Take in a Kathikali show - amazing drumming and tabla, with dancing demons in heavy make-up. Great fun! Fort Cochin is a fine place to just wander about, with nice little markets, fishing areas and cafes.

After a good days rest, we have an early start for a boat trip down the backwaters. In a small boat, we glide silently along spotting snakes, kingfishers, woodpeckers, fishing cormorants, ducks and wildflowers. The air is hot and still - this is the hottest we have been so far I think. Kerala is a 3 showers a day place - the only way to cool down when there's no swimming to be had. The heat builds up and then it's not uncommon for a downpour late afternoon.

After big family discussions and a vote, we have decided to return to Agonda in Goa. Why seek what we have already found! Keralan beaches are either cliff backed with strong tides or expensive resorts geared towards package holiday makers. We had everything we needed at Dersy's, so we phone them to confirm our return and book a train back to Goa. We now have two very happy children who can hardly contain their excitement - Roisin says she doesn't care how tiring the journey will be - it'll be worth it. She's not wrong.