Tarutao National Marine Park & then north bound

We had a seamless journey to Koh Lipe in Tarutao. It was a little unnerving as we kept expecting the unexpected but the Muslim Thais of Satun took such great care of us and were so friendly, I almost felt like staying on the mainland. Our bus dropped us in La Ngu where a kindly Sangthaew driver (share taxi) stopped to pick us up. No problem Ick said. I will take care of you. And that he did. He took us to the pier to pick up our tickets for the morning ferry then delivered us to the delightful little 'Diamond' beach huts where Tevo struck up a game of football with the local children. After a glorious sunset admiring the Tarutao islands in the distance, we got an early night and headed for the park on the slow boat to Koh Lipe.

Now the Lonely Planet preaches that it is not very developmentally sound to visit Lipe as the demand will invite over-development of the island, and to stick to the park accommodation only islands such as Tarutao & Adang. Here's a thought - don't stay at the places that are clearly the work of large outside investors (unless you want the place to look like Koh Chang or Koh Lanta in a few years times). Stay in the original island huts rather than new developments (on this note I would advise avoiding Mountain Resort since they already have plans to build a multi storey complex - hideous idea). You really don't need hot water or air conditioning - and it's important to respect the fact that waste created by tourists is a problem for the island - if you have to use tissue (and I'm sorry Guy but we have not been able to adapt to the water only method - even in India - I refuse to wipe my arse with my hand and those hoses often result in you looking like you've peed your pants) don't throw tissues down the loo.

We have also found the ice and jugged water perfectly safe to drink (as we have all over Thailand) and bottle refills are not difficult to come by, even in Lipe (Pooh's bar). Koh Lipe will stay a paradise if it is allowed to do so by the tourists. It is still just this side of shanti - since our last visit 3 years ago but change is happening so fast - and I can't help wonder how long it'll be before the friendly and accommodating Chao Lay (originally sea-gypsies allowed to settle here by the Thai government) become cynical and disenchanted with tourists who seem to be ruining their home. So enough of the soap box.

We spent a blissful 8 days in Lipe. We went kayaking around the island and found our own private beach and snorkelled til our feet hurt. The marine flora and fauna is spectacular. The sea was not quite the same clarity of Similan but then who notices the difference between being able to see 15-20 metres as opposed to 30 metres and the coral around Tarutao's islands has suffered very little tsunami damage - the reefs were filled with hard and soft coral, and at times it felt like you were floating through an enchanted forest, with its grotto-like coral caves and waving tree ferns, watching different fish go about their day. Silvery and stripey shoals surround you, giant faced groupers peer out from their caves, irridescent parrot fish shimmer as they scrape at the coral and clown fish venture from their anenome home, where their babies swim amongst the fronds, their little faces peeping out. I never thought I could build up so much confidence in the water after so many years of refusing to do more than paddle. My deep and morbid fascination with sharks and the general idea of fish with teeth has kept me from enjoying this spectacle for decades. Tevo and Roisin are in their element here - after 12mths of snorkelling lessons, they glide and dive like professionals.

We took a fantastic boat trip with Jack, a Chao Lay fisherman we met at Time to Chill Bar. He offered to take us to some different places and would teach the children to fish. We had a truly magnificant day! The snorkelling was mindblowing. I saw the shark's shadow first - I nearly choked on my snorkel and swam backwards (keeping my eyes on where it was going) as fast as I could. I noticed that the shape swam differently to the other fish - faster, rapid darting between coral cliffs and caves, something very practised about it. I realised the rapid movement and bubbles had scared it away and this gave me some confidence. It clearly didn't plan to eat me and it didn't look too big. I swam to Lee and the children and did something I have longed to do since my friend Anne had taught me and our other PGCE colleagues in a micro-teaching practice session. The language of divers. LOOK (point to your eye) - OVER THERE (point to where thing of interest is - pointing is important since a flat palm indicates to go that way, and it could have been a hammerhead - although I doubt it in water so shallow) - SHARK (make a flat palmed fin shape in front of your forehead). See Anne, you're a great teacher, I remembered.

It was about 3 1/2 feet and a black tipped reef shark. It was beautiful, sleek and metallic looking with souless dead looking eyes. Roisin decided it was time to get out. Tevo lapped it up although stayed nice and close to us. On returning to the longtail, we all excitedly chattered about our encounter. Then we took off for some more fishing. Jack taught them to line fish and to set the pole lines off the back of the boat while he skimmed about the deep water. Suddenly Roisin's rod almost detached from the boat and fell across her - we had caught something big. Jack showed Lee how to land it - and what a fish. A 3-4 kg striped king mackeral. It was a beauty. Then off for more snorkelling and more sharks - two this time and a little bigger - maybe nearly 4ft. My heart was still pounding and the deep drop off from the coral was starting to give me the heebie jeebies. We headed home the long way round from North Rawi to Adang and up the east side to Lipe's sunrise beach and back to Pattaya beach.

Tevo carried the fish proudly (and with some difficulty) up the beach to a round of applause. We celebrated with a few beers and sodas, while Jack cooked up our fish. It fed ten people and 3 dogs by the end. Jack made an awesome fish stew, BBQ'd fillets, calamari in chilli, rice, vegetables, scrambled egg and a chilli garlic soy dip (courtesy of the lovely Claudia). We had a wonderful night making new friends and still buzzing from the adrenaline surges of the day.

We were more than a little sad to leave Lipe knowing the place will continue to change and we cherish the moments in time we have had there. Our friendly driver from earlier, Ick, meets us at the pier, runs us to the Malaysian border (Satun) for a quick visa run (totally painless) and then onto Hat Yai for an overnight train to Bangkok. We only plan to spend two nights there as we are heading North for some culture and great food.