Tuesday, April 18, 2006

Sabdee Pii Mai Lao!

We have experienced fantastic new year celebrations in Luang Prabang and despite Tevo having a few days feeling a bit off, it's been great. The new year procession actually takes place on day 2, and there were no elephants. They were to be replaced this year, we were told, by buffalo. Perhaps the communist government wanted something more symbolic of their agriculturally centred life? Turned out to be a giant papier mache one with huge testicles. We returned home that evening soaked to the skin and covered in flour and oily ash. Took 3 showers to get mostly clean again! We met a professional photographer (who Lee and I made a double pronged attack on, and sooted both sides his face - the locals appreciated a good water ambush, especially on a dry farang). Anyway, he has posted up some good photos of the day.

You can check out his pics at: http://www.worldpicturenews.com/web/index.aspx?category=travel


So Lee joined the procession and went to see the washing of the Buddha's at the main temple while I kept an eye on Tevo recuperating. Poor little mite got heat exhaustion and then possibly a mild bladder infection but as there were no doctors available at the hospital due to the holidays (slightly worrying) we had to treat him ourselves - and after cooling ice flannels, plenty of water, paracetamol and a short course of amoxiclav, he was right as rain. This little episode has reminded us of just how much heat we are dealing with here in Northern Laos and how much you have to stay on top of your water intake.

We are currently half way between Luang Prabang and Vientiane, in a strange and tacky place called Vang Vieng. It's like a building site, with 'Khao San Rd-like' cafes showing the Simpsons and Friends back to back (T&R are very happy). Lots of inappropriately dressed farangs (who seemingly can't read the large and multiple signs that ask them NOT to dress immodestly and explains that wearing bikinis and shorts in the street are offensive to local people) and drunkeness - funny thing is I like Khao San Rd in Bangkok. I like Bangkok - having come to love all sides of its modern, chaotic and even seedy self. This place is just a bit tacky, and doesn't feel right for Laos. Although the scenery's stunning (but this is Laos so what else would you expect by now) it's more of the same of what's further up north with some hideous development going on. So there's little reason for us to stay here. We all have a bit of caving and tubing fatigue - and are definitely ready for some new and different experiences.

So Vientiane is where we are heading tomorrow where we hope to splash out on a hotel with a swimming pool - I really can't explain how hot it is. Maya, our Canadian friend did warn us but you have to feel it to believe it. Now is definitely not the right time to visit Cambodia with children and anyway, who wants to visit such an interesting country in the space of week. So many travellers like to 'tick box' their countries ("oo yes I've done India, we spent a few days in Rishikesh and then a few weeks in Goa") - this is not our travelling style at all. So Cambodia, Vietnam and China will have to wait for another trip - sounds like a good future route already!

We leave Laos on the 21st April to cross the border into Eastern Thailand, and have plans to visit Khao Yai National Park on the way to Bangkok. But for now, it's back to the Simpsons and perhaps a happy shake or two ;-)

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