Ups and Downs in Bali

After an emotional reunion with my mum, we spent another night in Kuta. Mum was more than happy to leave as soon as possible, so we headed to Ubud for a night or two of culture and temples. It was quite nice. Still quite touristy and so many flippin shops everywhere. It's like people come to Bali to shop. Not quite what we had in mind really.

After getting a taxi up to Ubud, we stayed at Gusti's Cottages, which had lovely gardens, a cute pool and ok rooms. It looks like bathrooms are not the strongpoint in Indonesian guesthouses. Most have been a bit skanky so far. Everything leaks and is stained brown and there's a constant strange smell. Anyway, after dumping our bags and a fabulous lunch at a nearby Warang (the veggie food options have been looking up since leaving Malaysia and the Indonesians make a damn fine tofu and tempe curry), we set off on a walk around Ubud. We took the trail shown in the Lonely Planet, down through the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (where we nervously watched cheeky macaques scoffing tourist offerings of goodies) and then south of Ubud and up through the rice paddies. It was a lovely evening and the views were refreshing after all that Kuta mayhem. We came through another village where there were lots of local artists and then it started to go dark so rather than chance dark roads and crazy drivers, we caught a lift with some motorcycle taxis. Mum on one, me and T on another, and Lee and Roisin on another. It was a spontaneous bit of fun and riding without helmets isn't something I'd normally do, but it actually seemed the safer option at that point. Plus after a long days travel and a 6km walk, we were all ready to flop.

The next day we hired a driver and jeep and got him to take us to all the local sights - Goa Gajah, Yeh Pulu, Gunung Kawi and Tirta Empul. Important temples and sites of archeological and historical interest - it was okay. Personally I though Goa Gajah looked like someone had pilfered the caves of anything interesting, Yeh Pulu was a carved wall at the end of a nice rainy walk through some paddy fields where we recieved a blessing from an old crone, Gunung Kawi was slightly more impressive with its giant niches carved into the cliff faces and Tirta Empul (where it is said the waters have magical properties) was packed with children as it's the start of the school holidays. I wonder if we have been a little spoiled now after India and Sri Lanka, as nothing was that exceptional really and the kids were a bit bored if I'm honest. Plus it rained ALL DAY so that wasn't helping. We had a nice lunch and the day was then rescued for the kids when we visited Rinca Reptile Park.. Totally worth the extra dosh (it's expensive for Indonesia). We got to see all manner of snakes, spiders and reptiles including a Komodo dragon and a very angry King Cobra. The children got to hold a tortoise, an iguana and even stroke a giant monitor lizard.

We got back to Ubud in time to get tickets to go and watch some Balinese dancing. I think the kids were fed up by this point though, and although it was really good, we decided to leave early and get some dinner before everyone fell asleep. We ate at a fancy restaurant next to the Royal Temple.

The next morning, mum and I set out to do some shopping. Mum bought some really nice jewellery and I got a fancy dress. My first 'dressing up' clothes in nearly a year, it felt strange to be wearing a skirt that isn't a sarong or lungi. On leaving Ubud, we visited Bali Bird Park. Again a bit expensive, but again, something the children enjoyed immensely. Loads of birds from all over SE Asia including lots of types of Hornbills and the very impressive Birds of Paradise. They even got to hold some friendly Macaws. After lunch we headed north to the volcanos (still with the same driver who was costing about 180k rupiah per day - which is about 11 quid).

When we reached the south end of the lake, our driver (typically) tried to take us to a hotel of his choice (which wasn't even in Toya Bungka). Then we started to get alot of aggressive hassle off some local touts who insisted we had to buy permits there before heading down to the lakeside. When we insisted our driver take us down to Toya Bungka, they followed us in another vehicle shotuing and trying to get us to pull over and then to follow them. We had to be quite assertive with our driver about not stopping and keeping going until we reached the village. Not the best introduction we were hoping for it has to be said. Although driving down through the lava fields was quite impressive and the lake is really beautiful.

After looking at some very overpriced rooms at the end of the lane, we opted for a cheap bed at Under the Volcano III. We only plan to be here for one night and even then, we'll be up and out at 4am. We organise a trek for the morning and have dinner at Volcano II. It seems to be the only place open with food and we are the only tourists in the village. We hear about how there are virtually no tourists here now. After the Bali bomb, business has dropped dramatically. Plus, the World Cup means that the usual trekkers (mostly Europeans we are told) are not here either (apparently Aussies like to surf and Japanese like the beaches and shops). Its very picturesque here, if a little spooky at night. Mum got the heebie-jeebies being on her own in her room listening to the stange noises outside. We had a lovely evening star gazing (awesome views of the Milky Way - the best since Ladakh) and this is despite the fact that mum got a cockroah in her coffee. She was totally cool though and didn't freak out at all - although quite rightly asked for another drink. Once again, we ate more eggs than are probably good for us and prepared our gear for the morning hike up Ganung Batur.

Edi our guide arrived just before 4am and we set off in surprisingly mild conditions. Now, it has pretty much rained for most of the time we have been in Bali so we couldn't believe our luck at having such clear skies. It took us just over 2 hours to get to the first peak, and sunrise was totally rewarding with amazing views across to Gunung Agung (Bali's holiest and biggest mountain/volcano) and the mighty Rinjani in Lombok. Edi was a great guide and told us lots of interesting stuff about the geography, the different craters and previous eruptions. From the first peak we followed the trail around the main crater and then down to subsequent ones. Steamy sulphurous vents and crackling rocks impressed the children no end. We sat on the warm ground to ease our tired limbs while Edi cooked us our eggs in the ground. We completed the long trek right across the top and dropping down the slopes to the south end of the lake. we had gorgeous weather and it was probably one of the most interesting hikes we've ever done. Edi was most impressed by my mum's efforts I think and we were happy that Bail had finally wowed us (as I was starting to worry about this place and why exactly it is that people come here).

After 7 1/2 hrs, we finally reached Toya Bungka again. We ate more eggs and then set off for Padangbai on the east coast. We opted to stay at someone a bit better than basic and found ourselves great rooms (roomy, clean bathrooms, nice furniture and a fabulous pool). We had probably the best family room of our trip and a bargain at 350k rupiah (about 20 quid). As we were all so tired we stayed for an extra few nights while we contemplated our next move. The plan was to visit Nusa Penida and Lembongan - two islands to the east of Bali. I had some serious concerns about how much hassle you get here and how it may not be the island paradise we are looking for. We already knew we would go to the Gili Islands in Lombok after my mum left, but we decided maybe we should just go straight there.

Padangbai is a fairly uninteresting and drab port town - the main exit for Lombok and further east. Still lots of hassle and the beach is a pretty filthy with rubbish and seaweed everywhere. We could have headed a few kms out and found a nicer beach but instead opted for some R&R at our lovely hotel. Mum and Roisin went for massages while we all ate and swam and rested.

We left Bali on the public ferry to Lembar in Lombok. After rushing our brekkie and legging it onto the 9am ferry, we finally set off at 11am. The journey takes another 5 or so hours. It is possibly the slowest boat I have ever been on. But it's very exciting. We're off to Lombok and I've always wanted to go there. Bali without the crowds and hassle - let's hope so!