Sunday, April 19, 2009

Bandhs, trekking and the elusive Kanchenjunga!

We've been trying to organise a few treks. Our first plan is to take a short trek up to Langtang (7-9 days depending on how well the kids cope and maybe do some day treks from base camp). This range is about a days journey north from Kathmandu. Thanks to Beej, we have met Carlos our guide and he has organised a porter and a landcruiser to take us to the trail head (the local bus is a hideously cramped 11 hr journey across steep rough terrain so we're giving it a miss).

Our big plan was to trek through the Kanchenjunga foothills but this is looking less likely now for this trip. I have to admit I am a little disappointed as I have wanted to see this mountain for many years now but the time is just not right. Kanchenjunga sits on the far east Nepal bordering with the Indian state of Sikkim. But to reach the trail head involves journeying through the Tarai region of Nepal. This state is fairly politically unstable just now with regular bandhs. A bandh is a full on strike. And this means no power, no traffic, no road access, no nothing. People get stuck for days on end because the road is blocked, sometimes up to a week. The trick would be to organise a trekking team then as soon as the bandh is called off, quickly get to the trail head by road. Once you're off the road, you're free to trek on. Flights to Taplejung, north of the road blocks as it's halfway up the trail, are cancelled with alarming regularity due to the weather, so that's not really an option. The other airport further south, Biritnagar, is in the Tarai so affected by regular bandhs, meaning getting stuck at a Tarai airport in 30 degrees for days on end is likely.

It's peak season for Sula Khumbu and flights to Lukla are booked out. I guess seeing Everest is something to look forward to on our next visit. Dolpo's a possibility but will incur much bigger expenses as requires two domestic flights to get to the trail head. But Mathiesson's The Snow Leopard is a favourite book and I have often dreamed of Phoksumdo lake. The other option is going to Pokhara and enjoying some day treks. Our friends Parina and Bijay may be able to come for a little holiday so that would be lovely. We could also go rafting on the way back to Kathmandu.

So tomorrow, we leave for Langtang and we all packed and feeling slightly in awe of the rucksack we have packed for the porter. This guys on a bonus for sure and we've not met him yet. Our guide Carlos is picking us up at 7.30am, aiming to reach a Tibetan settlement adjacent to the trail head by mid afternoon. We will stay here for one night and then set off on a 7-10 day trek. We may visit Gosainkund lake, if we are all coping with the altitude or we will spend a few days at Langtang base camp and explore some higher ridges on day treks.

Shanti shakti and a very happy and prosperous Nepali New Year to all (2066) x

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