Lantang Kipperbang Oi!

Day 1
We left Kathmandu at 7.30am in a landcruiser, with our multilingual and softly spoken guide Carlos and our sherpa Pasang (I do not think the word porter literates the true nature and ability of people like Pasang). Both are sherpas from the Sula-Khumbu region (that's Everest to us). Heading to Syabrubresi (pronounced Syubresi), a Tibetan settlement at 1460m, temptingly close to the Tibetan border and at the trailhead for the Langtang valley. By local bus along shockingly poor roads (I use this word with the broadest of definition) the journey can take up to 12 hours. It's only about 80km or so. In a landcruiser, it takes about 6 to 7 hours. The children were brilliant and took the journey completely in their stride. Happily scoffing their first proper daalbhaat on the lunch stop in Trisuli. Daalbhaat is a bit like indian thali, served on a stainless steel platter with a pile of white rice, a portion of tasty potato curry, a bowl of watery dal soup and sometimes spinach, cucumber and a tasty spicy pickle. Enroute, we purchased our trekking permits at the park office costing 1000 rupees each.
Our first night is spent at the Buddha Guesthouse, where the guides and porters appear to well looked after. The deal at guesthouses up here is that they make a minimal charge for the room (200-300 rupees which is about £2-3). But you are expected to eat there. As all guesthouses have the same menu, there would be little point in looking elsewhere. Better to choose the places that have good food and take care of the guides and porters. Since Carlos is also a vegetarian, we're quite happy to follow his advice.
Food gets more expensive the higher you go. On average we paid about 1500 - 2000 rupees (£15-£20) for all of us including dinner, breakfast and lodging. Our taste for snickers and fizzy pop (which comes in returnable glass bottles that are then hiked back down the mountain) cost us a fair few bob along the way too. The guides are paid 1000 per day and the sherpas get 500 per day. A tip is usual, averaging about an one extra day's pay per week. As Carlos had organised the whole trip, and saved us enormous agency fees, we paid them a lot more than the average. Plus Carlos is travelling to Barcelona on Sunday, having been bought a ticket and sponsored on a visa by his Spanish friends. He has never seen the sea. Carlos has studied Spanish at the university, which he speaks fluently along with Japanese and English, and even some French and German. We also arranged to take Pasang shopping for a pair of walking boots as he didn't have any. Despite having supported many big expeditions to Everest, Dolpo (he's been to Matthiesson's Shey Gompa on the Crystal mountain) and even Kanchenjunga, no-one has ever bought him some decent boots.

Day 2
An early start and after brekkie, we head out at 7.30am. This trek is described as moderate however there are sections that are incredibly strenuous (confirmed by several european trekkers who were amazed to see Tevo and Roisin handling it so well). The path goes up and down and up and down, each time gaining a few more metres in height (as opposed to the relentlessly climbing up). Within the first hour it becomes obvious that we haven't got ourselves fit enough (least of all me) and I may well have anaemia. I was meant to get my regular blood test prior to departure but I thought I was ok so foolishly didn't check. We are not even at 2000m yet and I am massively lightheaded, vomiting and my hands have gone white and numb. That can't be good!
Fortunately, we are lucky to have an incredible guide and sherpa. Carlos takes my small but heavy rucksack. He was carrying a small pack for himself and Pasang, who was carrying our biggest rucksack packed with down jackets, sleeping bags and a few clothes (so nowhere near the maximum of 70kg!!!!). He advises me on technique. I was taking tiptoed large steps instead of small slow flat steps, breathing through the mouth instead of my nose (the surest way to get a sore throat I am warned). And most importantly of all, bistaarai bistaarai (slowly slowly).
Our first tea house stop is at the bottom of a huge stepped climb of maybe more than 100m. I have some ginger tea and start to feel a little better. I think I have lost all my breakfast by now. The next stage has some steep climbs but also some beautiful woodland, carpeted with sativa, as the river rises and falls beside us as we go higher.
It becomes clear that Carlos is a well respected guide who has great friendships with the local people en route. He and Pasang went to school together and are great friends. Both embody so many Buddhist qualities with their respect for nature, inner calm and compassion. I know at the deepest level that these people will take the greatest of care with us during this trek.
After crossing a rocky beach, we stop again for lunch at a tea house high on the hill side. I give lunch a miss and drink more ginger tea and a coke for the sugar hit. The next section rolls up and down, and it is obvious we are moving much more slowly than planned. Our 6 hour trek today will soon become 9 hours, and we are trekking in incredible heat at times (intermittently relieved by the woodland shade). We arrive exhausted at Bamboo Guesthouse (1970m) and we take a much needed extended rest. I doze lying on a rocky wall next to the raucous river, kept cool by the breeze and occasional spray. The children play on the boulders.
Lee shows Carlos and Pasang our water filter, which impresses Pasang immensely, who then takes on the role of chief water filter man for the rest of the trip. We are proud to say we have not purchased any plastic bottles so far. Our filter is a swiss made expedition filter by Katadyn. It has probably paid for itself already and we've only had it 3 years (on a 10 year guarantee). Once it stopped working and we emailed Katadyn who then offered to ship us a whole new set of parts to anywhere in the world (they sent them to our good friends Caz and Johnny who then delivered the parts to us when we met up in Sri Lanka).
Anyway back to the trek. We have to decide whether we are going to make a last push for Rimche (pronounced Rimsey) or we stay the night here. After some food and rest, I wonder whether it would be better to push on as it would be better to stay at a higher altitude for acclimatization. The children are fervently against this idea but we manage to talk them into it.
We cross the river crashing over the giant boulders below, and an old moraine following a steep and exposed, narrow and rocky path. Then we had a relentless and almost body breaking climb up to Rimche (almost 2 hours) to our guesthouse for the night, Ganesh View (oddly named since this mountain, Ganesh, is behind us to the East). Instead we have a magnificent view of the valley below, with another valley cutting away towards Surya peak. This peak is adjacent to the sacred frozen lakes of Gosainkund and having just experienced the moderate trek of yesterday (so called), we're now thinking that the strenuous trek to the frozen lakes is not on the itinerary any longer. No matter. The stone built lodge at approx 2300m, looks out across the valley and I can see Surya peak from my bed! After lots of tasty food we all collapse into bed.

Day 3
We listened to the other trekkers rising early and they were long gone before we finally set off. We are all still tired from yesterday and the first hour or so is quite painful. Today we are aiming for Ghoda Tabela at 3020m. We walk across gently rising and falling grassy meadows with grazing yaks and zhoppa, ancient woodland and blooming rhododendron forest. We spot families of languor with their white faces and long tails. We were also lucky enough to see the small and timid musk deer.
Then we hit another unforgiving steep climb. Each corner we round, another climb opens up, then again, and again. I was so exhausted I could barely lift my limbs which felt as though they were filled with lead. I realised I may not be able to continue which I found very upsetting. I just about make it to the next tea house. Carlos jokingly suggests we hire a pony. I immediately feel relieved and tell Carlos about my riding experience and that actually it's a good suggestion. It is settled. At the next tea house, I will get a pony and ride the last section to Ghoda Tabela, maybe even to Langtang tomorrow.
It's interesting the reaction it provoked in other trekkers, who clearly see the hiring of a pony as a weakness and that you have actually failed. I don't feel like this at all. Horse riding is one of the great loves in my life and in fact, I feel like the luckiest person in the world to be pony trekking in the Himalaya. I am also hugely relieved that the rest of the family don't have to turn back because of me. My pony is called Karpo and I assure his owner I will take great care of him. Karpo is somewhat bad tempered but a good weight, strong and as sure footed as a goat. While we wait for his owner to fetch a saddle, Lee paints a watercolour of the start of the Langtang valley view which has now opened out, revealing the peak of Langtang I.
We stay the next night at a busier lodge, with great views and good food but now the altitude is starting to affect me and I got virtually no sleep. On the up side, I saw shooting stars and got to watch the sun rise through the valley.

Day 4
By this point, Roisin and Tevo are bounding up the mountain valley to Langtang base camp, like a pair of snow leopards. Carpo leads the way, as his owner is from the Langtang village, he knows the route and thinks he is on his way home. We see a type of blue sheep (that has another name but I've forgotten) and a huge eagle. The path is up and down and lots of flat littered with short iris' (nepali flat of course, which you will find is different to european flat). Then a last climb up to Langtang basecamp at 3400m. Great views of Langtang II, and the unseen glacier above the ridge creates a waterfall. This is a dangerous place to climb apparently. A few years ago there was a small airstrip, occasionally used by rich tourists. Then one year a group of Japanese climbers flew in, and began climbing the same day. They all died. Apparently Japanese climbers are prone to dying in groups (so we are informed by American ice climber, Chris). The air strip is now a strangely flat grassy field.
That night Roisin is violently sick. As I still have altitude induced insomnia (as well as this weird cramping and numbness in my legs at night), I am already awake, so clean her up and comfort her. Being rather prone to vomiting, she takes it all in her stride.

Day 5
We decide to take a rest day and visit a local gompa in the village (not Kanchen gompa, the larger one further up the valley). There is a celebration today, a quarterly seasonal affair. Roisin and I struggle to climb the hill up to the village. But it's worth it, as we are made very welcome in this beautiful ancient temple (no-one knows how old exactly but maybe 800 years old or more) with detailed paintings depicting early incarnations of the Buddha and various demons. Traditionally dressed women serve us yak tea (which provides another queasy accompaniment to the ripe smell of yak cheese and butter lamps). It became quite surreal, with women singing below on the ground floor, while the men chanted responding mantras around the shrine, on the upper floor. It is here we sat at the back by the intricately carved windows, while children played and the sounds of the drums and horns were carried away in the breeze. Outside the villagers share bowls of radish soup as prayers wheels ring out.
I am fascinated by the modernity of the teenagers in their Abercrombie sweaters and Converse trainers, chatting to their traditionally attired family and community. Children mostly go to school in Kathmandu, boarding for months at a time. They are due to return in the next few days as the schools have been on strike. Tevo comments that the young children here wear whatever is available to them, 'he's wearing pink trousers and a frilly blouse' he says. But he is respectful in his voice and he is clearly taking in the stark contrast to his own life.
It feels so remote and life is so old here, like going back in time. At least 95% of the people here are locals with 4% guides, sherpas and people such as the gas engineer staying at our guesthouse, Village View. Perhaps only 1-2% tourists and trekkers. The old stone houses with their manure mortar are clustered about the valley, which is dotted with ancient stupas and pilgrim walls. Keep left! With their mantras engraved so long ago but still enduring.
We observe the beauty and simplicity of life here but also, there should be no romanticising the hardship of life here. Men and sometimes women, carry huge loads up these mountains in little more than slippers. Sometimes they are exploited and made to exceed the maximum load of 70kg. We sometimes saw them carrying two rice sacks, each weighing 40kg and more. Carlos, clearly saddened, told us how they sometimes fall because they have neither the right footwear or too much weight. Here, he says, the poor will most probably die as they have no insurance and are unable to afford any healthcare. And that's if someone can get them down.
We met a farmer one afternoon, who had struck his hand with a tool and it was badly cut, clearly infected and possibly broken. His skin was so hard and cracked, but Lee tried his best to clean the wound. We cleaned and dressed it and gave him some antiseptic and clean dressings, which we got Carlos to explain that he must clean it again tomorrow. The man started to cry.
How close life is to death here. That a simple infection can lead to blood poisoning and death. That pregnancy complications could likely result in the mother and/or baby's death (who we saw just outside Shyubresibresi, she would have to endure an arduous day's journey to the hospital). That a broken bone may mean the end of your life. An injured eye, the loss of sight. Further hardship is currently being endured due to the lack of rain. There was no rain at the start of the year, and they are desperate for it now. The cattle are looking a little on he skinny side and the crops are struggling. Living off the land is harder than ever (currently Nepal and India are experiencing temperatures up to 8 or 9 degrees higher than previous years – the consequences of this climate change for the rural poor are proving catastrophic). Plus when the rain does come, it will flood huge areas and cause landslides the size of which are almost impossible to conceive until you see the remnants. These mountains are the steepest I have ever seen in my life. I think you have to be slightly deranged to try to ski here (two norwegians ? died trying to ski down Everest can you believe!)

Day 6
We need to down, not up to Kanchen Gompa at 3850ish. I have been without sleep for a third night and the nightly pains in my legs are making me nervous. Roisin feels very weak too, so today we head down to Rimche. Trekking poles are really a must for going down these hills (if you have any respect for your knees that is). I am amazed at how much stronger I feel as we head down. It's a wonderful feeling and I think I may actually be high in oxygen. I also wondered if going to altitude is good for anaemia as it forces your body to start to adapt so when you come down, you are improved with regard to oxygen take up.
Unfortunately Roisin is very very sick and unable to keep down any food or water even. She feels weak and shaky, so we are much relieved to reach Rimche after a 7 hour trek. Pasang makes us the most amazing food, a thick nettle soup and flower salad (nasturtiums) served with the tastiest daalbhaat in days. The woman here dries the yummiest chillies we've tasted and the chapatis they make from the local buckwheat and fired on their clay ovens are a dream. Roisin vomits again but then feels better and manages to eat some of Pasang's magical soup. I get the best night's sleep in days, as I suspect everyone else does too.

Day 7
Roisin is visibly weakened by her lack of food and water, and I suspect she might now be dehydrated. She continues to vomit on the walk down and rehydration salts turn out to be the worst idea of all, prompting her to throw up the entire contents of her stomach. The little hydration she had is lost and she takes a brief nap in the breeze on the rocky wall at Bamboo GH. Carlos suggests that he will carry Pasang's load and Pasang can carry Roisin. After crossing the stony beach and reaching the top of the steep stepped hillside on the other side, Roisin jumps on Pasang's back and we are soon moving along at quite a pace. To be honest, I can't remember much from the last bit of the trek as I was so broken and exhausted, it took a great deal of determination and distancing of the mind from the pain to make around the last section and down to the village. 8 hour trek in total. Roisin did brilliantly and really pushed through at the end, although those final steps up to the road just after the stupa nearly had us both floored. After hot showers and food (which Roisin threw up but then once again felt much better), we all collapsed into bed.

Day 8
We leave for Kathmandu at 7.30am. The drive back was endurable as no matter how rocky the road, firstly, we were in a landcruiser not an overcrowded dangerously driven local bus, and secondly, we didn't have to lift our legs up great rocky paths. I encouraged Roisin to miss breakfast and she had a few biscuits at Trisuli lunch stop, which she threw up just before we got back in the vehicle. Amazingly, when we got back to the apartment, Lee made her beans, mash and sosmix sausage which she scoffed and then was fine. Good old bangers and mash! I must admit, I might give the daalbhaat a miss for a few days.