Pokhara & Rafting the Kali Gandaki

Having had such a fantastic time rafting and camping the Bhote Koshi, we decided to take our friends Parina and Bijay to raft the Kali Gandaki. My friend Parina is a workaholic, incredibly committed to her work, but a workaholic all the same. They never get opportunities to do the things we do when we're here, such as experiencing the joy of rafting Nepal's rivers. A couple of days away from the harsher realities of life in this country, I knew it would be amazing for them. Parina took a little convincing, but we assured her the rafting team had amazing safety standards and they would look after her as a non-swimmer. Bijay didn't need any convincing and travelled with us across to Pokhara. We spent a day chillin in Pokhara, rowing around the lake and fishing.

Got there on a very comfortable tourist bus (500 roops) although there was an old guy sat behind me, with his wife and daughter and son in law. He just kept exclaiming very loudly, LOOK MARGERY, LOOK, mangoes, or look look a red sari, LOOK Margery, rice fields, oh yes. I enjoyed his child-like running commentary, remembering what my mum said to me about her trip to North America last year. Alaska was beautiful but I had no-one to say, look how beautiful it is, and share that moment. After 4 hours I put on my Ipod. By the way, he sounded just like that actor in Fawlty Towers episode The Anniversary, where Basil pretends Sybil is ill. The husband of Una Stubbs' character, with the very amusing voice, it was him I swear. Sib ill, eh Basil , Sib ill. Except it wasn't him of course.

Parina was planning to come the following day, but a very sad thing happened. A 17 year old girl, married with a baby and unfortunately a drug problem, but also one of Dristi's service users, set herself on fire about ten days earlier. She died at 5am on 15th May. Parina stayed behind to sort her affairs and raise funds for her hospital bill. There are several of us who will ensure the baby is supported for the rest of her childhood. The young women has a sister who may come to Kathmandu and look after the child. But she will need a job and support. Education is relatively expensive here. Parina's dream is to open a home where women and children can live together, learn new skills, grow crops, produce handicrafts, perhaps in the Terai where land is more fertile. Definitely away from Kathmandu.

Parina finally arrived and we set off early the next day. We drove to the drop in point on a smaller bus, and missed the breezy jolliness of our previous transport. Also, the bigger the vehicle, the less you are thrown around on bumpy roads. Although these roads are tarmac' ed. Rather novel if slightly scary on twisty mountain roads.

We rafted for three days, camping two nights on river side beaches. There is no road support on this trip. We leave the highway, with two rafts – one for us and a bit of gear and then the main gear raft. We are joined by an American, Taylor, a rafting guide passing through who's joined the support team to get a free ride. At first Parina is still nervous at first but a few rapids in and she and Biz are having the time of their lives, as are we. We had a full on bounce and flip over at one point which scared a few people but we were all fine and we were lucky to have such a pro team. It took Parina a while to recover from the shock, but later we cajouled her into having a swim to build her confidence in the life jacket. I think it worked. We have a lovely camp on the first night but late evening rain continues through the night getting us all a bit soaked – but who cares – we're rafting!

We hit the water late, just before noon and the sun greets us by mid afternoon, as we have an awesome time over some great rapids. so the team dry off the tents while we eat lunch. Madoh catches fish with Bijay's help (19 year old rescue Kayaker not our Biz). Big bony beggars they are. But everyone enjoys them for supper. Tevo builds a roaring fire, after Biz rafts over the river (in the dark!) and collects wood and some Rocksi from the local village. Fabulous evening camp with bellies full of tasty dahl bhaat.

The last day of rafting and due to a dam which has killed the current, we hitch a ride on a passenger boat that chugs us upriver to our pick up point. One more tasty buffet lunch, and we head back to Pokhara. Four hours in blistering heat. Hmmm, can we get back in the river now please! May is a time to climb high or raft rivers in Nepal, it's just very very hot.

Back in PK, Biz and Parina hitch a lift back to Kathmandu with the team in the morning. We stay another night to rest.