Gili Island Dreaming (part 2)

We booked the fast boat from Bali's Benoa harbour straight to the Gili islands. Last time, I did the overland journey several times on local transport, as I escorted my mum back to the airport after her visit. I swore I wouldn't take that slow boat again. It's takes 5-7 hrs to reach Lombok from Padangbai on Bali's east coast (a 2 ½ drive north from Kuta). You then have to bargain for a bemo to take you to Bangsal in the north of Lombok, then catching the local boat to the islands. A total journey time of 12-14 hours. This time we take a 2 ½ hour fast boat straight to the islands. This boat wasn't running previously as there were no tourists. $50 each one way, half price for the kids, thank goodness.
When the boat landed on the beach at Trawangan we were a little confused as last time, boats only landed in limited places due to shallow water. Now something looks different and it's not just the strewn rubbish. As the party island of the 3 Gilis, it's clearly taking a toll. We are excited as we reach Gili Air and looking forward to seeing our friends. Sadly, the lovely Sunrise Hotel with its funky lumbung ricebarns is full except a family room at the back that we didn't like the first time we came, so we're certainly not going to like it this time. The place is looking very tired now too. Plus the prices has also gone up. From $10 per night to $25. They want $35 for the family room which is essentially the same as the other rice barns with no balcony to make room for an extra bed, leaving barely any room for luggage or legs. We stay one night and then after catching up with some old friends, move next door to Corner huts. $15 per night for a simple balconied hut with fan and flush toilet, and the luxury of fresh water showers (Sunrise like most places has salt water showers).

We notice what it is that is different. In 3 years, the sea has risen by at least a metre, maybe more. The erosion is obvious as we wander down the island. Places we used to sit, under bamboo beach shades, have washed away. The beach is significantly narrower and a bit dirtier. There has been extensive development and the number of tourists and therefore boats, coming here has vastly increased. Most places here are owned and run by locals. There's a few foreign owned outfits, making bigger developments with their air conditioned pristine bungalows but theirs lots of local businesses too. The thing about going back to somewhere you thought was just perfect is that it will never be exactly the same again. You can't recapture the past as it was or relive the same moments in time. A valuable lesson in embracing the moment and accepting change I think.

Once we settled in, we have found our favourite snorkelling spots where we dive and surface alongside hawksbill turtles, and it's great to see that areas of the coral are flourishing. The northern part of the east beach has some great coral gardens and variety of fish. Who knew trigger fish were so grumpy! Turns out they will bite you if they get really pissed off. On a snorkel trip today, we explored some fantastic coral on the southern side but quite far out; a boat would be recommendable as it's across an exposed reef so it would be a very long swim round. The currents are also very strong.

We also visited Gili Meno, the quiet island. Unfortunately, the water is just not as blue as it once was as the rising tides are bringing more seaweed (and I'm starting to wonder of there's been an oil spill out at sea and that's what dirtied the island sands with black streaks). But it's still very clear as you move away from the beach and towards the drop off. We free dive to a wreck off the west beach and Lee waved to the scuba divers, but they didn't look amused. The Meno wall, a shelf on the north side was very cloudy and had strong currents so we didn't see much there. We met several turtles around Trawangan and Meno, where we stopped for lunch and took a walk to the salt water lake in the middle of this tiny island.

We have been here 5 or 6 days now. I've lost track. We snorkel, read, swim, snooze, play guitar, trounce Lee at backgammon and snorkel some more. And eat of course. Indonesian food is great for vegetarians. For a start, they make the best tempeh we've ever tasted. You can have it fried and served with peanut sauce or in a rich garlic curry. Lee's been sampling the local fish - red, black or white snapper. Then there's the national staple of Nasi Goreng, a tasty vegetable fried rice served with a fried egg on top, or Mie Goreng, a similar dish with noodles. The kids also reckon that Corner makes the best pizzas which have a melt in your mouth paper thin base and handfuls of fresh basil. The room price includes a big brekkie of fresh fruit, tea or coffee (a quite decent Lombok ground), and either eggs or pancake or toastie of your choice. We've all lost weight, and I think in part it's due to eating a good breakfast everyday, and not eating just before bed. I like being slim again (I think I've lost at least 10 pounds) and will be making every effort not to stuff my face with bread, cheese and potatoes when I get home this time.

Our next plan is to take a local boat back to Lombok and head to Sengiggi to rent a car and stock up at the ATM. The cost of getting tourist bus transfers is extortionate ($50 just to take us to our first stopping point in the north, less than 2 hour drive – and we'd need to make 5 of these trips to do a loop around the island). The local buses are infrequent, and don't take you around to the east side. We're hoping to hire a jeep for $20 a day. Then we're going to do a 10 day tour of the main island, heading up into Ganung Rinjani's foothills (the second biggest peak in south east asia – you can't climb the peak at the moment as a newly formed volcano within the crater has been spewing lava recently) and visiting the rural and culturally rich villages around the east and south (and where if we're lucky there may be some traditional stick fighting), before heading to Kuta Lombok, a stark contrast to Bali's Kuta as it is on an undeveloped sweep of huge beaches, cliff backed hidden coves and great surf.

An international airport is currently in the pipeline for south Lombok and a Dubai developer is buying up the land to build some uber resorts. So we're going to grab some more moments in time, as it's clear from seeing the changes in the Gili islands, that word spreads fast, things move on, economies grow. Which is in no doubt a good thing for people here – it would be easy to say as a fat pocketed tourist, oh look at all the damage the development's doing to the natural environment but to be fair to the Gili islanders and their clearly wise elders, there are still no vehicles on the islands, and the reef and it's inhabitants are protected by islanders paying local fisherman not to fish here. No buildings over two storeys high, mostly made of local materials. Our carbon emissions will destroy these islands before they do. Tourism pays for the schools on this island. All businesses pay a % to the local community funding health and education. As Lee pointed out after chatting to Swambi, our guest house owner (and sometime vodka brewer), there is sense of things being done for the benefit of all the islanders, not just individuals. This was after he lamented over several trees on the beach at Sunrise being chopped down yesterday. No trees are allowed to be chopped down without the elder council's approval. Sunrise is owned by a Scottish man. He's not here right now and may well wish he wasn't when he has to face the island elders.

After ten days in Lombok, we have booked to take a 4 day boat trip from Lombok to Flores, stopping at Rinca and Komodo as well as several other great snorkelling spots along the Nusa Tenggara. The road journey across Sumbawa is legendarily bone shaking and arduous, and the boat trip lets you see the stunning coastlines without being holed up on a cramped sweaty bemo for 2 days. For $150, we think it's a bargain and once again, the kids are half price. We will sleep on deck under the stars. The kids are very excited.