Sublime Snorkelling and Dangerous Dragons!

It was finally time to leave Kuta Lombok. The children were sad to say goodbye to their new friends but Lee and I were ready for some new adventures. We had to get back to Sengiggi to return the car and meet our tour company for the boat trip to Flores. We stayed one night at Puri Bunga Cottages ($60 for a family room) – like the rest of Sengiggi, tired looking but great coast. The next morning Gana picked us up in a bemo. Turns out the boat doesn't go from Sengiggi (on Lombok's west coast) but from Labuan Lombok on the east coast; a 3 hour drive back across the island. I'm not in the best of moods having spent half the night on the loo. I am just not getting any better despite a course of antibiotics, and have lost a huge amount of weight. I spent two hours trying to make international phone calls to try and change our flights but simply could not get through to anyone. I couldn't even get a call out to Jakarta to contact Air Asia's office here. I want go home a week early so that I can get myself well before going back to work. They give me 4 months leave and I come back to go off sick – I don't think that would be fair.

Once on the bus, I think I scared some of tour group by snapping at a local for nearly breaking the guitar. I felt bad because they look like nice people and they don't know how bad I've been feeling. A really nice english lad tries to help by using his laptop to find a wifi signal for Skype. But still no luck.

We set off for Labuan Lombok in our crowded bemo and we soon make friends with Katie, from east London. Turns out the nice bloke is her boyfriend Chewie. There are going to be two boats, each with 12 passengers. They tell us we're going with the other bemo group but we beg them to let us stay with our new friends. Katie clearly has a great gift with children too, and making friends with other travellers who like kids is not a common occurrence so we stand our ground at the dock and they let us travel on the same boat together.

This is a four day trip. Today we sail to the NW coast of Sumbawa, reaching our overnight point after 8pm. Sunset was beautiful with stunning views back towards Lombok's Rinjani. We have a late dinner of spicy tempeh and veg with rice, and then try to get some sleep for our first night on a boat. The crew set sail at 3.30am so any sleep we did get was minimal. Once we are moving sleep is only something that people with sea legs have the luxury of. But this means I get to watch the sun rise and see a huge whale skull sitting on the rugged Sumbawa shore. Viewing the Nusa Tengarra from the sea is definitely the best way to explore. It's stunning. Rugged, pristine forests drip down mountain sides spilling into the bluest ocean. We arrive at Pulau Moyo, our first island stop. The reef is lovely and we spot blue spotted rays and a moray. The water is so clear and warm, it's very surreal. Then it's a swim to shore to climb up to a fresh water pool and waterfall. Now I'm starting to think I'm jinxed on these walks. I'm all set and barely on the path when a guy from the other boat comes stumbling past us, looking panicked and clearly unwell. His eyes are visibly red and swollen and he's scared. His girlfriend is trying to help him but he's stumbling blindly through the bushes, getting scratched and tripping. His girlfriend, called Merissa begs for help. He's asking for adrenaline and I realised he's having a massive allergic reaction.

I offer to help and try to get him to calm down, take deep breaths and walk slowly. We get him to shore and I start swimming to our boat, shouting to our crew to get the little boat to shore to bring him aboard. They realise what's happening and by the time I have swum to our boat they are helping him up the ladder. I lie him down and get the crew to break up some ice onto a towel to cool the welts that are swelling all over his body. I grab my first aid kit and find some prescription strength anti histamines.

I remembered that my anaesthetist brother in law, Jez, once told me it's ok to take double the dose for a first dose if you're in a lot of pain. So I assume the same applies, and give Chris two big tablets. I also find some cream for allergic hives so I get Merissa to apply it to where he's burning the most. I have to admit, I was quite scared. His mouth had swollen up like a big old grouper fish and his eyes were closing. His ears are twice their normal size (either that or he's got a best mate called Noddy). His neck, arms and body were covered in huge welts. I checked for a signal on my phone and was ready to call help. I kept an eye on his breathing and tried to keep him as calm as possible but all the time I was thinking, shit this guy's in serious trouble. Fortunately, the tablets seemed to help and he stopped swelling up. Merissa told me he's had a chest infection and that he took someone else's antibiotics. I ask Chris if this has happened before and he said he might be allergic to penicillin. I ask them if the tablets were amoxycillin. Chris looks a little sheepish. The clues in the name really. I explain to Chris what's probably happened and that the antihistamines seem to be working, so we just keep him lying down and cool, sipping some water. He's a kiwi and his other Aussie pal arrives about an hour later and in typical aussie style, rips the piss out of his deformed face. I explain that he mustn't drink with these tablets and to take another one tonight. Somehow I don't think he'll take any notice. But he is ever so grateful and offers to give me some his valuable on board beer. Martin (one of our group who I think I scared earlier) says I am an angel. I joke and say, no, just a well prepared parent with the mother of all first aid kits. I have suture kits, drip kits, all kinds of meds. But lets hope we don't need them again. But I'm glad that Martin and Laura (from Argentina and Spain) have seen another side to me and that I don't just spend all my time shouting at locals.

After more swimming and snorkelling, we set off for the next island. Our team are great. There is Carolina (Swiss) and her boyfriend from Gili Air, Afid. Martin and Laura, a beautiful couple, well travelled and clearly madly in love. Two very smiley girls from Java (how nice to see locals exploring their own beautiful country. And Chewie and Katie who we become great friends with. Chewie's a flare barman, like the guys on Britain's Got Talent (he used to work for them). They're travelling for 18mths and are on their way to Australia and New Zealand. We all get on great which is as much as you can ask for when you're living aboard a boat. Our crew are very able and hard working, and feed us exceptionally well. Although I have a bout of dysentry and feel quite weak and depleted. I start yet another course of antibiotics which seems to help a little. At one point, we see a few dolphins and then they're everywhere. We're in the middle of a feeding frenzy with huge yellowfin tuna and dolphins leaping out all around us. Truly amazing! After a lovely veg curry dinner, the crew explain that we will be travelling overnight from this evening to reach Komodo. Lee, Chewie and I stay up to watch shooting stars and what looks like a meteor (will have to ask Ben when I get back to work – huge fireball with a fiery tail that lasted for about 30 seconds then seemed to break apart).

I woke about 2am and the boat is all over the place. The bags and guitar land on us as we're thrown about. I am scared witless and realise I don't know where the life jackets are. I'm trying to plan our escape if the boat overturns but Roisin is crying and then I am too. I think that maybe we will drown. We're crossing the rough currents between Sumbawa and Komodo and I'm sure we're in trouble. The stars have disappeared behind the clouds (our navigation system) and the swells are so huge, I can't see how we're going to make it. When the sun rises, the sea seems to calm and we chug our way into one of Komodo's many coves. The crew seem to think it's hilarious. I explain to Abdullah later, that perhaps a heads up on the conditions would have been nice and also, the life jackets down in the hold are in a very stupid place. He thinks I'm just a scaredy cat westerner. I agree entirely and try to get him to understand that we don't spend time at sea like this and that some reassurance (and a life jacket next to our sleeping mats) would go a long way to improving the experience.

Everyone sets off up the rocky steep hill to get a panoramic view of west Komodo and the surrounding islands. Abdullah says flipflops will be fine. What is it with these people? After stumbling about on the hill, Roisin gives up and sits down on a rock to wait for the group to return. I try to get to the top, but everything is spinning, so I too have to sit down and rest. The views are still great and once I get my breath back, I set off back down the hill, collecting Roisin, and then back to shore. We have a nice swim while we wait for everyone to get back. Once again, I tell Abdullah he's taking unnecessary risks. A broken ankle out here, and you're in big trouble. We get our trekking shoes out for the next walk, in Komodo proper, from the National Park office. UNESCO declared this a world heritage site in the mid 90's. Much to the annoyance of local fisherman. But then the British used to keep slaves. It doesn't mean we should keep doing it! A few months ago, some illegal fisherman were shot and killed by the police. They've had less trouble with poachers since then.

We take a short trek around Komodo but don't see any dragons. Because it's such a big island, they could be anywhere. It's easier to see them on neighbouring Rinca (pronounced Rincha) as it's smaller and they like to hang out near the park office. We set off after lunch (we have yet more eggs while our friends get to eat chicken, freshly killed while we were on our trek. The poor little blighters have been in a sack since Sengiggi – mmmm I bet that meat wasn't tough at all!).

Our next stop is a remote bay on Komodo called Red Beach. So called because of the red flecks in the pure white sand. I have never seen a place like this. The coral is as pristine as it can possibly be. So colourful and so many varieties, soft and hard, with an array of marine life. This coral is flourishing right up to within a few feet of the beach. It's incredible. We snorkel for hours and we got some copies of Martin's underwater photos, which really don't capture the beauty of this place. A colleague of mine who lived in Jakarta for many years, told me there wasn't much to see at Rinca and Komodo. He described the islands as barren. I take it you don't snorkel much Tom? We saw giant puffa fish, moray, hawksbill turtle and so many fish. Chewie is a swimming encyclopaedia of fish. He wants to be a master diver, and makes a fab snorkelling companion. I've learnt so much about the different fish, trevelli, blue fin tuna, goat fish, napoleon fish, trumpet fish, clown trigger fish, box fish, fusiliers, anemone fish, the list just goes on and on.

We reluctantly drag ourselves out of the sublime water and we set off for a calm bay in Rinca where we will spend a more peaceful night. After another great meal we enjoy the last of our alcoholic booty, playing guitar and singing our favourite songs. Other boats pull alongside to enjoy the free entertainment. Turns out Abdullah's a pretty good guitarist and Katie has a great voice. It's a great night and we all get very drunk, trying not to fall off the boat on our way to bed.

I wake up as we set off at 6am. Yummy fried bananas for brekkie and I try to take in every moment of our final day at sea. It's so wonderful and I've hardly been sea sick at all. The problem is dry land now. It seems to be moving even when I'm still. Apparently it may take a few days to subside. We arrive at Rinca's park office and to Tevo's absolute delight, the Discovery Channel are here making a documentary about real life monsters. We spilt into two groups; we join the long trek group but soon regret this when we realise it's very very hot on land, and also there's a large group of dragon's hanging out by the office. This is what we came to see, so we decide to stay with the short trek group so we can stay here. One of the Discovery team is here and he's trying to get shots of the dragons fighting. It's a truly awesome and slightly scary experience.

These creatures are very dangerous and you must stay close to the ranger. Two months ago, an illegal poacher was eaten alive. A few months before that, a dragon wandered into the park office and bit the ranger. They have hundreds of bacteria in mouth and this is how they kill their prey, waiting for them to die of blood poisoning then ripping them apart. They are fearless too. They ate half a child last year while she was using the village toilet in Rinca. They regularly attack tourists who wander off from their assigned group. We stay close to our ranger. The children don't need telling twice. We take a walk up a hill that overlooks the bay and the views are just incredible. Under a lone tree, a komodo dragon dozes in the shade. We give it a wide berth. Tevo finds lots of shell fossils and the ranger explains that no-one must take anything off the island so we get some snaps.

We leave Rinca for one last snorkel stop before Flores. The island is tiny with crystal clear waters but unfortunately it is not part of the national park. Every bit of coral is destroyed. It's devastating to see and we start to head back to the boat. Chewie is also a great spotter, and he calls us over to where he has found a lone piece of coral, with two amazing lion fish. Beautiful, deadly but very docile, so we watch them fan their pretty fins as they drift out from under the coral. Then we spot a stunning family of giant cuttlefish. Watching these creatures change colour and shape was incredible. The biggest, probably the male, was at least 2 ft, with a smaller one, then two baby ones (still a foot in length). Sadly some locals having a day trip to the island, spotted us clustered around the remaining coral. One swims over, climbs onto the coral (nice) and shouts his mate to get the spear gun. We begged and pleaded for them to leave the fish. We offered them money. But no, they speared all four of these beautiful creatures, the black ink bleeding into the sea. A sad but unfortunate reality here. The sea has two functions in Indonesia. A source of food and a great big dustbin. It's a real shame because they have the best reefs in the world, but for how long?