Vientiane & Back to Bangkok

We all felt a little sad to be leaving Laos after what has seemed like such a short time and there is much more of the country to see. But we spent more time getting to know people there and that made the experience all the more. It is definitely somewhere we would return to when the children are a little older. Talking to our fellow passengers in the minivan to Vientiane, we heard their stories of how the place just gets more beautiful as you travel further north and how a one month visa is just too short.

There's so many things I could write about Laos. It's such a fascinating country with an unbelievable history (the US bombed Laos more than any other during the Indo-China War, at one point spending over 2 million dollars a day). There are thousands and thousands of unexploded ordinance (UXOs) across Laos. We visited a smithy village outside Luang Prabang where they recycled the steel from the bomb shells ("excellent quality steel, US, very good!" he tells us). They made all kinds of stuff from buffalo bells to knives and agricultural tools. I asked him if it was dangerous to collect the steel and who did it (Mee our guide spoke the most excellent English and made an informative guide and useful translator). He told us it was very dangerous but the boys who collect the steel are well trained and have a lot of experience. I think poverty makes people do really dangerous things.

Lee said I have to write about the ants. He's written a short dissertation to our friend Caroline about it - he's slightly obessed I think, but he's right in his observations. They are EVERYWHERE in Laos and there are so many different kinds in such huge numbers, you actually start to like them (apart from the big red ones that bite you).

We arrived in Vientiane and stayed at Le Parasol Blanc for one night as a bit of a treat. It was alright. Bit musty but colonnially quirky and a swimming pool (as it seems to be getting even hotter!). We took a local bus to the border and crossed the Friendship Bridge into Thailand (where there were suddenly no ants!). Went to get tickets from the train station for Bangkok and found no sleeper available for two days. And then only two seats/bunks. So we are looking forward to a cosy night tonight on an upper bunk with no air con (I think I can see where this is going). Been staying in the Mekong Guesthouse and it's very nice with great views across the river to Laos. All mod cons and now we're heading to our own apartment for a week of normality in Bangkok - yippee - dreaming of home made food and a real sofa to sit on ;-)

Sabdee Pii Mai Lao!

We have experienced fantastic new year celebrations in Luang Prabang and despite Tevo having a few days feeling a bit off, it's been great. The new year procession actually takes place on day 2, and there were no elephants. They were to be replaced this year, we were told, by buffalo. Perhaps the communist government wanted something more symbolic of their agriculturally centred life? Turned out to be a giant papier mache one with huge testicles. We returned home that evening soaked to the skin and covered in flour and oily ash. Took 3 showers to get mostly clean again! We met a professional photographer (who Lee and I made a double pronged attack on, and sooted both sides his face - the locals appreciated a good water ambush, especially on a dry farang). Anyway, he has posted up some good photos of the day.

You can check out his pics at: http://www.worldpicturenews.com/web/index.aspx?category=travel


So Lee joined the procession and went to see the washing of the Buddha's at the main temple while I kept an eye on Tevo recuperating. Poor little mite got heat exhaustion and then possibly a mild bladder infection but as there were no doctors available at the hospital due to the holidays (slightly worrying) we had to treat him ourselves - and after cooling ice flannels, plenty of water, paracetamol and a short course of amoxiclav, he was right as rain. This little episode has reminded us of just how much heat we are dealing with here in Northern Laos and how much you have to stay on top of your water intake.

We are currently half way between Luang Prabang and Vientiane, in a strange and tacky place called Vang Vieng. It's like a building site, with 'Khao San Rd-like' cafes showing the Simpsons and Friends back to back (T&R are very happy). Lots of inappropriately dressed farangs (who seemingly can't read the large and multiple signs that ask them NOT to dress immodestly and explains that wearing bikinis and shorts in the street are offensive to local people) and drunkeness - funny thing is I like Khao San Rd in Bangkok. I like Bangkok - having come to love all sides of its modern, chaotic and even seedy self. This place is just a bit tacky, and doesn't feel right for Laos. Although the scenery's stunning (but this is Laos so what else would you expect by now) it's more of the same of what's further up north with some hideous development going on. So there's little reason for us to stay here. We all have a bit of caving and tubing fatigue - and are definitely ready for some new and different experiences.

So Vientiane is where we are heading tomorrow where we hope to splash out on a hotel with a swimming pool - I really can't explain how hot it is. Maya, our Canadian friend did warn us but you have to feel it to believe it. Now is definitely not the right time to visit Cambodia with children and anyway, who wants to visit such an interesting country in the space of week. So many travellers like to 'tick box' their countries ("oo yes I've done India, we spent a few days in Rishikesh and then a few weeks in Goa") - this is not our travelling style at all. So Cambodia, Vietnam and China will have to wait for another trip - sounds like a good future route already!

We leave Laos on the 21st April to cross the border into Eastern Thailand, and have plans to visit Khao Yai National Park on the way to Bangkok. But for now, it's back to the Simpsons and perhaps a happy shake or two ;-)

Beautiful Northern Laos and a water sloshing new year!

We left Luang Prabang on a local bus to Nong Khiaw as the Mekong is just too low to ride the boat upriver. A real shame as it is considered to be some of the best scenery around. But getting stranded hours from anywhere, and having to camp down in a storm with a load of whining tourists (as happened to some people we met) did not appeal, so the rickety local bus it was. We had the ever present vomiting locals but thankfully the journey was relatively short and the distraction of the amazing countryside was really something else.

Laos is truly one of the most beautiful and pristine places we have seen. Words cannot capture how awe inspiring the landscape is... towering karste mountains with swirling misty covers, where dense green forests cling to the steep valleys. You could get lost for weeks if you chose to. In Nong Khiaw, we crossed the bridge to the neighbouring village of Sophoune (which the Lonely Planet refers to as Muang Noi but no one else does) and found a place to stay at the basic but adequate Bamboo Paradise. Nang, our 11 year old host immediately befriends Roisin and before long we are having our hair braided while Tevo plays petanque (boule) with her brothers. Roisin and Tevo have been making friends all over Laos. This is the kind of people they are. Open, friendly and totally unassuming. They really are wonderful people here and they love children more than anything.

One afternoon, I met a man (from Hawaii) called Marco who is married to Chan, a Lao woman and they have 3 daughters. His eldest, Marika, is nearly 7 and Marko tells me how difficult it is for her as she has so few friends of her own age living in the village. Marika speaks lao and english and Roisin is overjoyed when they are introduced. Marko invites Roisin to stay for dinner, so we give her and Tevo some much needed space from each other and take him to dinner over the bridge. The next day, Chan invites both the children to stay for the day and Lee and I have our first child free time in over six months. Can you believe it... we actually have a babysitter for the day! Well before you can say mines a lao lao, we are off on a walk up the valley to explore the caves where the Pathet Lao hid out from US bombing during the Indo China war. We had a brilliant time and although a hurt my leg trying to swing across some steep bamboo ladders, we ended the day in great spirits having a drink and some food with some fellow travellers (who are somewhat more friendly to us when we do not have the kids with us.... charming huh!).

Roisin and Marika were both devastated when we said we had to leave but we promised to return in a few days. We set off on a small boat up the Nam Ou, one of the biggest rivers in the north east of Laos to an old village called Muang Noi (which the Lonely Planet calls Old Muang Noi just to confuse everyone). Once just a subsistance village, bit of farming and a bit of fishing, its now home to some very nice guesthouses and is a great base for trekking and trips further afield. As I was still fairly lame from the bamboo ladder incident, Lee took off on a solo trek and enjoyed some more caves and visited more remote villages up in the valley.

Next day we took a day trip with lovely german couple called Rolf and Renee, and our competant guide Humphan. Putting along the Nam Ou even further, we visit another cave (very long dark and spooky with lots of stalactites and stalacmites) and we do some net fishing catching a few lunchtime treats for everyone. Then its off to a village, called Muang Sien. They do not speak Lao here, but another language called Kamut (sp). The village is amazing. Basic but so clean and well looked after. All the children run out to see us, and not one asks for money or anything. Just full of smiles and wanting to touch Tevo and Roisin. I explain to one of the older women that they are twins (faf fairn in Lao) and demonstrate a big fat tummy and not being able to walk. They find it very amusing. We go up to see their small school, recently built by donated money and sit at the teak desks looking out into a steep misty valley... now there is an excuse for gazing out the window if ever there was one! We buy some of their rather unique handicrafts, a kind of embroidered table runner and then head back to the river for lunch. Crossing a spirit bridge, I ask the boys if I can take a photo. All the local children are so pleased they all line up on the bridge to be in the photo. I show them the digital image... they seem happy as we leave, waving and smiling. Down at the beach the boys have cooked up the fish, so while all the pescavores tuck in, Roisin, Tevo and I scoff the sticky rice dipped in soy sauce. Then it is back to the boat for some more fishing and a little swimming before returning back to Muang Noi.

The next day we head back on the morning boat to Nong Khiaw. The Lunar New Year is almost upon us (14th April) and each of the villages compete in a boat race. They are all out in force practising their stroke. They are lean mean rowing machines! Back in Nong Khiaw, their team are the reigning champions and have been practising for weeks already. I suspect they may win again. The children get to spend their last few hours here with Marika and her family while I enjoy some of Chans amazing cooking and then it is time to leave, so many tears it is heart breaking.

Our original plan was to head to the remote east from Nong Khiaw and then south through Laos to Cambodia. However, the children have been very tired of travelling just recently. We have just hit our 200 day marker and its showing in the children. They keep making friends and then we move on which is very traumatic for them. They want to stay put for a while and we have decided to make some compromises to accomodate them. After all, this is their trip too and Angkor Wat will still be there in years to come. So after some lengthy and emotional chats we have decided to return to Luang Prabang for the Lunar New Year. The children have made friends there and its an easy place to be and relax and recharge. We are planning to succumb to the well worn travellers trail down through Vang Vieng and then onto Vientiane before returning to Thailand to make our way down to Peninsular Malaysia. We are planning to find a place to stay put there, perhaps rent a house for a month or two.

For now though, we are loving Luang Prabang and the children are now fully armed with water guns for the daily sloshing that wandering about town involves. Our guesthouse is a bit of a childrens gathering place and the kids are in their element with daily water fights and football. They love it and it is not a hard life to be here in this amazing world heritage town. So for now, we are staying put and plan to say goodbye to the year of the rooster (that is me!) and welcome in the year of the dog in this wonderful town.

The lunar new year begins in mid April (this year it is the 14th) and practically the entire country comes to a halt and celebrates. Houses are cleaned, people put on new clothes and Buddha images are washed with lustral water. In the wats, offerings of fruit and flowers are made at various altars and votive mounds of sand or stone are fashioned in courtyards. Later, the citizens take to the streets and douse one another with water (but like our own fireworks celebrations, children start this early just for the fun of it!) which is appropriate because April is the hottest month of the year. It is particularly picturesque in Luang Prabang where it includes elephant processions.