Chillin' in Sihanoukville

Arrived on the south coast of Cambodia, in the port of Sihanoukville. A rough and ready little place where the beach 'resorts' are fairly sprawling and mostly set back from the beach behind the road. A little Agonda-esque only busier and a tide that almost reaches the cafe door. It's definitely a place with a vibe and we had a great day down at one of the beach front cafes, eating, drinking Beerlao and playing guitar, punctuated by the odd swim. You find yourself in constant conversation with the locals who are selling everything from massages and threading (like waxing - she came straight over grabbing my legs saying "you hairy, me fix for you" as she's yanking at my leg hair and trying to check my armpit) to books and bracelets. They're pretty persistent although very friendly, and very physically close to - sitting holding your hand or with their arm around you. They are genuinely affectionate people and obviously, it helps if they can make a few dollars too. We sat and chatted with them - letting the kids play the guitar and generally be very cheeky - and stocking up on yet more bracelets and fruit.

I can imagine how some travellers might find it all a little challenging, especially if you're not used to it but it's all very good natured (if somewhat competitive between some of the locals). The food's ok down on the beach although we took a taxi to Victory Hill for a curry today - and it was truly horrible food. We're down near Ocheateal (?) - but none of the beaches are spectacularly inviting and not a patch on the Thai islands (or Gili Air or Perhentian Kecil). We've been so spoilt really. But the key to enjoying Sihanouk I think is getting into the atmosphere and banter, rather than having expectations of coral filled torquoise seas and beach huts on the sand. Since this is our last week or two and we do love a good beachside hut and some snorkelling distraction, we are off in search of this over the Thai border. Tomorrow we leave for Koh Chang National Marine Park, just over the border. Leaving at 7am, it'll take us til evening to get there but then we can relax, thai-stylie, for our final week.

The flights back to London from Bangkok are looking alot more expensive than we realised so we're going to have to get to Bangkok and see if we can find a better deal.

That's all for now.....

Hanging out in Phnom Penh

After a somewhat frantic arrival in Phnom Penh, where we are crowded down by moto and tuk-tuk drivers at the bus stop (so much so that a local policeman intervenes to get them to back off), we head to a nearby Thai cafe for some much needed food. While the kids and Lee chill over some iced lime juice and phad thai, I take off on the back of a moto to find a hotel. Now I know I usually have quite a fixed opinion about motorbikes. I'm happier when there's helmets involved and we have been careful about when and where we have used this form of transport. But throwing caution to the wind, I zip across town enjoying the breeze in my hair and watch with fascination as somehow the traffic just seems to slot together. They come at these junctions from all directions and there are times where it feels like a kamikaze mission as the bike just strides out into crossways traffic, but a steady pace seems to allow all the drivers to anticipate each others direction and location and somehow, amazingly, it all just slots together. Another interesting experience with PP moto drivers is they mostly don't speak English, so despite the fact that they nod their head vigorously at you, they have no idea where it is you've just asked to go. My request to go to the Royal Palace (to scout some nearby hotels) ends up with me arriving at The Royal - some hugely expensive Raffles like hotel on the other side of town. No matter - we engage the translation services of a tuk-tuk driver outside the fancy hotel and much to everyone's amusement, he explains I want to go to the Palace, and not actually stay there.

Once at my destination, I check out a few hotels, but they are either full, or grubby or too expensive. Another moto driver asks me if he can help and I say ok - and let him take me to a hotel that has rooms for under 10 dollars. The Royal Highness Hotel sounds alot nicer than it is. It's ok but is undergoing building work so we have had various incidents involving early morning hammering, water cut offs and the best of all - when the roof almost caved in during a monsoonal rain storm. Luckily, we were in, so we rescued all our stuff off the floor and no damage was done (apart from the caved in ceiling of course). The staff are friendly and helpful though and it's a good location (with a free pool table) so we have stayed put. It's also a fascinating spot for some 'rear window-esque' people watching. Our hotel has large reflective glass windows so you can watch the world go by without anyone noticing you. Opoosite, there's a row of chinese shophouse style buildings - where the ground floor is a shop, cafe or laundry type place and the upper rooms each house entire families in small 1 or 2 roomed apartments. Each little room has a balcony and the the families wander on and off the balcony going about their household tasks. Children climb precariously on the balcony walls, women clean and do their washing, men sit and watch the world go by or play with their children. I watch them get ready for work or just lazing around in the afternoon swelter. When the rains come, it's a scramble (as much as Cambodians really scramble) as people bring in their washing or grab things from the balconies. It rained so hard the other afternoon, the street became a river and you could just watch the people watching the rain. There's not much else you can do when it rains like that.

We've not been up to much here in Phnom Penh. We've wandered about, making the most of the excellent range of eateries (had a cracking 2 dollar thali lunch at Chi Cha's Indian cafe yesterday) and been on shopping expeditions with the kids for birthday presents. We now have a remote control car and a range of barbie-like dolls and accessories to carry, along with lots of new gameboy and PS2 games (which we have promised to buy the children on our return). We also bought a huge cake which they somehow managed to eat over the course of 3 days. We had several unsuccessful attempts at meeting up with our old Indian travelling buddy Nat, but it obviously wasn't meant to happen and we'll have to see her back in Blighty. We also did the tourist bit - and visited the Royal Palace and the rather spectacular Silver Pagoda (so called as the floor is covered in silver tiles). The National Museum was really interesting and the children were brilliant at spotting various artefacts and picking up on where they were from and what they related to. I think it's best to come here after visiting the temples around Siem Reap, as it all makes alot more sense having seen where much of the stuff comes from.

A note about the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek and Tuel Sleng Museum. No we haven't visited them but we have thought alot about it. We decided the children are too young to take in something that is so unbelievably horrific. It would give them nightmares and they don't need to face up to something like that just now. Yes, Lee and I might have gone if it was just us but even then, I had my doubts. I'm not someone who needs to place myself in front of such memorials/mass graves/torture chambers to feel how profoundly depressing Cambodian history is - I've been doing alot of reading and I can picture the true horror of what went on (and have shed some tears over it and have spent a great deal of time trying to get my head around Cambodian history). For some, being there helps bring it to life in their minds, and I'm sure I would be overwhelmed with such feelings if I went there (perhaps too much so). But it not something I feel I have to see - I'm certainly not turning a blind eye to it because I have been thinking about it alot while I've been travelling here. We just decided not to go and I think it was the right thing for us to do.

On a lighter note - how can I forget - we also went go-carting for the children's birthday! Now I'm sure there are rules against 8 year olds having so much fun in the UK. But this is Cambodia. The staff propped them up with a few extra cushions so they could reach the pedals, a decent helmet fitted and zoom.... they were off in a puff of dust and smoke. Lee and I obviously had to go too so we could keep an eye on them. We were really quite stunned at how well they both drive having had no guidance or instruction although we had to keep reminding Tevo that it wasn't a computer game, and crashing might hurt a bit end. Great fun.

So having whiled away a week in Phnom Penh, we are now heading south to the coast. The beaches of Sihanouk Ville and maybe some nearby islands are next on the agenda. It's a weird time for us as we are due to return to the UK in about 2 weeks or so. We plan to enter Thailand via the fast boat from Sihanouk to Trat. We then plan to have a final week 'on holiday' in Koh Chang - a national marine park off the east coast of Thailand, before flying home from Bangkok. we have alot of mixed feelings about coming home. Excited yes, and looking forward to all the things we've missed - friends, family, food, our own home but very apprehensive and sad too. It feels very sad to think of this as the last chapter of our amazing journey, and our apprehension at what our lives will be when we return home. What will we do for work, which direction will we take now? - not wanting things to be the same anymore and wanting to try new things. It's quite overwhelming so we don't think about it too much just yet. We'll just take it as it comes and see where we end up. After all, isn't that one of the things that travelling teaches you. There is no plan - it is what it is - there are no mistakes.

For now, it's back to the hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh and I'm off in search of a green Krama.

Welcome to Cambodia

Arrived at the 'just opened 4 days ago' Siem Reap airport in western Cambodia. Probably the nicest airport we've seen on our trip - very funky design which obviously Lee was enamoured with. Nabbed a super cheap flight from KL and totally worth the jump back up through SE Asia.

We spent the first day adjusting to the climate - it's still hot, hot, hot round these parts but at least it rains in the afternoon and gets a little cooler - plus a room with air-con is only 10 US dollars so always have an escape from the muggy and incessant humidity. That is, unless you are climbing up huge and dangerously steep steps of enormous and rambling temples that seem to sprawl the entire surrounding area of the town. Siem Reap is a place of contrasts for sure. Lots of wealth from the tourism that the temples of Angkor and Bayon attract (only 2000 USD a night for a suite at Raffles!) but also evident poverty and hardship for those struggling to eke a living here.

We found ourselves a driver, Maheit, with his trusty moto carriage (a motorbike towing a small tuk tuk like carriage) and arranged a 3 day pass to explore the sites. On the first day we explored Angkor Thom and the temples of Bayon. Mesmorising giant faces (of Buddha and Brahma incarnations they say) face all directions to protect the ancient city from invaders - there must be 20 or 30 of these giant towers just in Bayon alone. We were so entranced we even returned for a sunrise visit. The Baphoun (where there is a giant reclining Buddha) at Angkor Thom is also undergoing huge works, so it was a little difficult to identify Buddha's head. Lots of children selling bracelets and flutes and postcards. It's so hard to say no to them, especially as they are not begging (which can't be in their interests to reinforce) and you know that their families probably rely heavily on the small amount of money they make - but there's so many of them. Needless to say we are now fully stocked with bracelets, postcards, flutes and fans.

Next was Angor Wat - a sprawling beautiful site - despite the evident destruction and decay (which is carefully being repaired with UNESCO money). Amazing carved scenes from the Ramayana and Buddha's life and certainly no shortage on the wow factor. It's busy of course, and especially when we return for sunset on the last day. But no matter, it's still a fantastic place to experience and just take a meditative moment or two in the central wat. I think the Bayon faces and the the wall of elephants (at Angkor Thom) were my personal favourites. We had a crappy meal near the temples and then flopped out in our air-conditioned room to recover. The food in Siem Reap itself is pretty good. It's hard to get decent veggie street ór Khmer cafe food and they seem to insist that fish sauce has to go in everything, as well as using those crappy Thai imported egg noodles instead of the more divine rice noodle that's so easy to get in Laos and Thailand but we just haven't seen here. But there's a good range of restaurants and cafes and we've enjoyed great indian food, phad thai and Khmer pancake rolls (though the mint leaves came as a bit of a surprise).

On the second day, we had a little scoot about town and bought lots of books. Lee and I read the rather disturbing ''Óff The Rails in Phnom Penh'' and the tragic and moving account "When Broken Glass Floats'', while we were in Gili Air. Both of us were fired up to read more about Cambodia's history so we are currently making our way through ''Year Zero'' and ''Highways to War''. Cambodia's history is everywhere you look. It's in the weary faces of the old and bright smiles of the young, where over half the population is aged uder 15. No-one's quite sure how many people died during the civil wars (and the secret US bombings during the Indochina war that may have killed as many as 1/4 million) and then the brutal purges of the Khmer Rouge, and subsequent poverty and famine. Current estimates from a study by Yale University (I think?) are in the region of 2 million people. There are huge numbers of young children working the streets (mostly touting goods to tourists) and numerous amputees (as a result of minefields - which means wandering off on solitary treks is out of the question). Cambodia's poverty is vividly apparent and the contrast between the smiles of these friendly and welcoming people and the hardship of the lives that most people lead is challenging and humbling. It certainly reminds me more of India than anywhere else we have been.

In the late afternoon, we then explored the twin temples of Chao Say Tevoda and Thommanon, the latter also in a state of having extensive repairs. We then went to Ta Prohm, the temple that's been swallowed up by the jungle - an unbelievably atmospheric place. We then returned to Angkor for sunset. Tevo and Roisin played 'races' with some local children and a few NGO workers on the causeway, while Lee, Maheit and I chatted about life and a bit of Cambodian history. Maheit comes from a rural life in the North East near Kratie. His brother died during a bombing campaign. He served several stints in the army, mostly under Sihanouk, but during the time of the ''Khmer Rouge and then the communists'', he spent a lot of time hiding in the jungle. He says he joined a rebel army of freedom fighters at one point but then ran away again and hid. He said he feels very lucky to have the life he has now - being able to speak English and work as a tuk-tuk driver ("I have a motorbike and a few dollars in my pocket - where I come from I am rich beyond anything they could imagine). He only got married last year (he's 36) and he tells us all about how he met his wife and brought her to Angkor Wat, where they sat in the inner temple and talked about whether they felt they could have a life together. He says his wife is from a very poor village as that's all he could afford - I guess they have an Indian-like dowry system here too.

On the third day, after a solitary sunrise exploration of Bayon we set off further afield for the temple Banteay Srei, a Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva and a fine example of Angkorian art (check out the photos). We then took a bumpy ride north to Kbal Spean. A half hour hike through the forest and jungle leads you to a carved riverbed, the "River of a Thousand Lingas" where they have been elaborately carved into a natural rock bridge and along the riverbed. Having got up so early (4am), we were all exhausted and headed back to town. The children once again proved their ability to sleep absolutely anywhere by falling asleep on the wooden ledge of the moto carriage.

Back in town, Maheit invited us to his home to meet his pregnant wife (due any day). He was so excited about having children here and was becoming good friends with them, playing cards with Tevo and joking around with them - he said they don't see many Western children and he'd been telling his wife all about Tevo and Roisin. So we visited his compound where he rents a room. About 4 by 4 metres - this room is their home. There's a bed, a cooking corner, a TV on some drawers and two sets of shelves. Inside, we meet his lovely wife, Maheit's sister-in-law and his sister. They've been making biscuits to sell in the market and very generously offer us platefuls, which they keep restocking as Tevo and Roisin tuck in. His wife and sisters don't speak english but Maheit translates and we chat about life in the compound and the families that live here. The whole site has about 10-15 rooms in blocks around a yard, where scrawny chickens and ducks strut about the puddles. The owner lives in the main house (about the size of one of the blocks). He rents carriages to the men here who have their own motorbikes. It costs them 60 dollars a month for the room and the tuk-tuk carriage. His sister tries to comb Roisin's hair (which hasn't been brushed for several days) and they clearly enjoy having the children here. It rains so hard at one point we can barely hear ourselves think from the noise of the deluge on the corrugated roof. I wish I had had the chance to bring them a gift for being so kind as to invite us here and welcome us into their home. We try to learn some Khmer and wish them all the very best of luck in the future and all good wishes for the new baby (at least I hope that's what we said). We say goodbye to Maheit back at the hotel, and give him some extra cash for the new baby. He seems really happy and perhaps this is the best thing we can give them, rather than some daft gift they neither want nor need.

The next day we rested and watched movies, and spoilt ourselves with some imported wine and cheese and brown bread. It gave me stomach ache - I'm starting to think that wheat may not be the best source of complex carbs.

Early the next morning, we get a bus to take us to Kompong Cham, en route to Kratie. It's a long journey but the roads are surprisingly good (and it seems they have the same approach as Indians to using the horn - used for every manouvre, it means, I'm behind you, I'm over taking you, I'm pulling out, you're in the road, move over, I'm bigger than you.... and so on). This is supposed to be the best place to buy Kramas, the traditional Khmer scarf used as sun protection for the head, dust mask, waistband, carrying children, a towel....etc. I manage to find two blue ones, one as a present for my friend Beaker when he's roofing and sweating in the hot sun and one for me. I opt for blue, as I don't want the red associated with the Khmer rouge but then find out that the blue is associated with the Vietnamese invaders. I decide to try and find a green check in Phnom Penh. We only spend one night in Kompong Cham, a very strange little town with a communist feel (probably the hotel we stayed in which seems to be designed with communist architecture in mind) and set off for Kratie at yet another undesirable hour of the morning. There are no boats going up the Mekong to Kratie anymore. We're gutted as this was what we came to do but they have stopped them as they are too expensive for locals and not enough tourists to justify them anymore. It's great to see the mighty Mekong again though.

I meet Red on the bus (he helps me with the window as I try desperately not to throw up from the smell of Durian on the bus). He's learning English and works as a guide at a Kratie hotel. He points the hotel out as we pass and asks if we want to come and see it, so we do and it's very nice - aircon, cable TV & sprung mattress bed in a bright airy room for 10 dollars (which is a great deal for us given that the dollar doesn't appear to be doing so good against the pound here). There's also a spectacular rooftop balcony for some guitar playing and wine drinking. Red organises us a taxi to take us up to Kampi to take a boat out to see if we can spot some Irrawaddy dolphins. There's two other small boats and the drivers are careful to cut their engines when they enter the bowl where the dolphins fish. As we silently bob about, their graceful backs arch out of the water (they don't leap about like their bottle-nosed or spinning cousins) and every now and then you get a peek at their serene round headed faces. The orange muddy water of the Mekong makes a beautiful backdrop as the low sun starts to shimmer across the water, occasionally broken by their silvery bodies. We see at least 3 different pairs. Scary to think that these endangered creatures may not be around when the children reach our age.

Kratie seems to be a typical Cambodian town, with a sprinkling of Wats, a central grubby market, lots of worn down colonial architecture and the constant puttering of motorbikes. The place certainly has character and we enjoy a wander or two around town and along the banks of the Mekong. We also meet several NGO workers, including a family from Idaho with three young children, who work at the local hospital (the parents that is, not the children).

We leave Kratie for the long bus journey down to Phnom Penh. It's the children's birthdays soon, so we have promised them toy shops and cakes in the capital. The plan is to rest and eat and chill for a few days before heading south to the coast.

Gili Island Dreaming...

I had to start a new blog for Lombok because it has been the absolute highlight of coming to Indonesia. Lombok is so incredibly beautiful. Obviously, they too have been affected terribly by the drop in tourism. I don't think it's just the Bali bombings, although this has driven many Australians away. I think people may worry about Indonesia's instability in general and the current natural disaster tally is getting ridiculous. If the tsunami wasn't enough, they are currently dealing with exploding volcanos (Yogyarta) and devastating flooding and landslides (Sulawesi). But these things happen in relatively contained areas, and most parts of this archipelago are peaceful and beautiful places to explore.

Lombok is the first island in the Nusa Tengarra region. A string of islands (500 in total) starting east of Bali that continue all the way to Timor, with Gunung Rinjani (Lombok's mighty volcano) being its highest point at 3726m. We arrived in the port of Lembar and organised our own bemo to take us to the north west corner at Bangsal to catch a boat to the Gili Islands. Time was catching up on us as the last boat departs around 6pm and it was already 4.30pm. We did not want to get caught in Bangsal as the LP said it could be quite an unpleasant place. As it turned out, they were quite friendly and we didn't really get hassled that much. We bought our tickets from the harbour office and sat watching the sunset waiting for our boat. We opted for Gili Air as it was the nearest and not as busy as the party island of Gili Trawangan, or has the isolation (and mosquitos) of Gili Meno.

While mum, Lee and the kids got some dinner, I ventured off to check out some accommodation. We opted for Sunrise Bungalows, gorgeous little 'rice barn' cottages, with a bedroom and balcony at the top, and a bathroom and magic chillin area downstairs (complete with daybed and hammock). The only letdown was the bathroom but then I have only seen one decent bathroom in Indonesia so far and I think that's just because it was brand new. At 100k per night, it's another bargain.

I woke up at sunrise and watched the colours change and sunlight emerge from behind Rinjani, as the sun started to sparkle across the clear torquoise waters. An incredible view to wake up to and I knew there and then we had made the right choice to come here. We spent our days snorkeling, eating, swimming, sunbathing and wandering around. The locals are incredibly friendly and we make loads of new friends. And what a joy to wander around without worrying about being run down by a motorbike (there are no motorised vehicles allowed on the islands - only pushbikes and ponycarts). We spent a blissful 5 days chilling out in this island paradise and mum even learnt to snorkel. We took a snorkel trip around the islands, exploring the Meno wall (which was a little bit scary and deep) where we saw loads of turtles. We had lunch on Meno and then went off to explore lots of other coral. Some of the best coral is actually around Gili Air and there's some cracking drifts right along where we stayed. Amazing fish - and more unusually we saw calamari (like a giant squid), banded sea snake, rays and those amusing fish that puff up like a ball if they get scared.

Sadly, mum had to return to the UK after her 2 short weeks so I escorted her back to Bali, staying in Kuta for a 2 nights and then I took a flight back to Mataram and made my way back to the Gili's from there. It's a good job I went with my mum because there was a bit of trouble back in Bali (well there's a surprise) when the shuttle company wouldn't accept one woman's ticket even though we had all seen her pay for the extension. The staff at Wanista Warika (?) in Padangbai were hideously aggressive and out of order, calling us liars and cheats (for the sake of 4 dollars - I don't think so buddy).

Anyway, mum and I went on a bit of a shopping frenzy in Kuta and ate nice food (being two things there are alot of in Kuta - restaurants and shops). When I took her to the airport, I had to bribe a policeman to let me in the building as I had no ticket. It felt very odd and highly criminal - but then it's the way things are here and just how things are done. You can't judge things here by the way we do things in the UK. Life is simply not the same and the rules are quite different. However, it kinda makes a big joke out of the airport security. Especially when I saw someone bribing an officer over identity cards at the check-in for my domestic flight the following morning.

I enjoyed my solo foray back into Lombok and had a short wander in Mataram before taking a cheap taxi back up to Bangsal. I sat chatting to the local boys in the harbour while waiting for the next public boat. Once they know you don't want to buy anything (or you are tanned enough to look like you've been here a while) they don't bother you anymore. A few words of Bahasa goes a long way too.

We spent another 10 wonderful days on Gili Air and had some amazing and unforgettable experiences with our new friends. Tevo and Roisin were warmly welcomed by . Everyone knows each other on the island - it is a true community in every sense. We learnt so much about island life and life on Lombok - and how different things are here (not simply that they are mostly muslim as opposed to hindu).

Tevo became quite the fisherman going out regularly with some of the local men to the beach, learning to cast out and reel 'em in, with the lovely Ali (who Roisin very kindly gave her fishing rod to and he was most chuffed). We all snorkelled til we could snorkel no more. And in the evening, we played guitar and sang, learning new songs with our new friends and then if we managed to stay up late enough, pile back to the staff quarters to watch football. It's hard to really put into words just how wonderful a place Gili Air is - the people, the landscape, the coral, the clear water - it's like a dreamy paradise and we feel like the luckiest people in the world to have come this far on our trip. There's one thing for sure though, we will return here and it will be just the start of an exploration of the Nusa Tengarra islands. Rinjani beckons, as do the islands from Lombok, Sumbawa, and Rinca, to Komodo and Flores. A definite future adventure.....

Ups and Downs in Bali

After an emotional reunion with my mum, we spent another night in Kuta. Mum was more than happy to leave as soon as possible, so we headed to Ubud for a night or two of culture and temples. It was quite nice. Still quite touristy and so many flippin shops everywhere. It's like people come to Bali to shop. Not quite what we had in mind really.

After getting a taxi up to Ubud, we stayed at Gusti's Cottages, which had lovely gardens, a cute pool and ok rooms. It looks like bathrooms are not the strongpoint in Indonesian guesthouses. Most have been a bit skanky so far. Everything leaks and is stained brown and there's a constant strange smell. Anyway, after dumping our bags and a fabulous lunch at a nearby Warang (the veggie food options have been looking up since leaving Malaysia and the Indonesians make a damn fine tofu and tempe curry), we set off on a walk around Ubud. We took the trail shown in the Lonely Planet, down through the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (where we nervously watched cheeky macaques scoffing tourist offerings of goodies) and then south of Ubud and up through the rice paddies. It was a lovely evening and the views were refreshing after all that Kuta mayhem. We came through another village where there were lots of local artists and then it started to go dark so rather than chance dark roads and crazy drivers, we caught a lift with some motorcycle taxis. Mum on one, me and T on another, and Lee and Roisin on another. It was a spontaneous bit of fun and riding without helmets isn't something I'd normally do, but it actually seemed the safer option at that point. Plus after a long days travel and a 6km walk, we were all ready to flop.

The next day we hired a driver and jeep and got him to take us to all the local sights - Goa Gajah, Yeh Pulu, Gunung Kawi and Tirta Empul. Important temples and sites of archeological and historical interest - it was okay. Personally I though Goa Gajah looked like someone had pilfered the caves of anything interesting, Yeh Pulu was a carved wall at the end of a nice rainy walk through some paddy fields where we recieved a blessing from an old crone, Gunung Kawi was slightly more impressive with its giant niches carved into the cliff faces and Tirta Empul (where it is said the waters have magical properties) was packed with children as it's the start of the school holidays. I wonder if we have been a little spoiled now after India and Sri Lanka, as nothing was that exceptional really and the kids were a bit bored if I'm honest. Plus it rained ALL DAY so that wasn't helping. We had a nice lunch and the day was then rescued for the kids when we visited Rinca Reptile Park.. Totally worth the extra dosh (it's expensive for Indonesia). We got to see all manner of snakes, spiders and reptiles including a Komodo dragon and a very angry King Cobra. The children got to hold a tortoise, an iguana and even stroke a giant monitor lizard.

We got back to Ubud in time to get tickets to go and watch some Balinese dancing. I think the kids were fed up by this point though, and although it was really good, we decided to leave early and get some dinner before everyone fell asleep. We ate at a fancy restaurant next to the Royal Temple.

The next morning, mum and I set out to do some shopping. Mum bought some really nice jewellery and I got a fancy dress. My first 'dressing up' clothes in nearly a year, it felt strange to be wearing a skirt that isn't a sarong or lungi. On leaving Ubud, we visited Bali Bird Park. Again a bit expensive, but again, something the children enjoyed immensely. Loads of birds from all over SE Asia including lots of types of Hornbills and the very impressive Birds of Paradise. They even got to hold some friendly Macaws. After lunch we headed north to the volcanos (still with the same driver who was costing about 180k rupiah per day - which is about 11 quid).

When we reached the south end of the lake, our driver (typically) tried to take us to a hotel of his choice (which wasn't even in Toya Bungka). Then we started to get alot of aggressive hassle off some local touts who insisted we had to buy permits there before heading down to the lakeside. When we insisted our driver take us down to Toya Bungka, they followed us in another vehicle shotuing and trying to get us to pull over and then to follow them. We had to be quite assertive with our driver about not stopping and keeping going until we reached the village. Not the best introduction we were hoping for it has to be said. Although driving down through the lava fields was quite impressive and the lake is really beautiful.

After looking at some very overpriced rooms at the end of the lane, we opted for a cheap bed at Under the Volcano III. We only plan to be here for one night and even then, we'll be up and out at 4am. We organise a trek for the morning and have dinner at Volcano II. It seems to be the only place open with food and we are the only tourists in the village. We hear about how there are virtually no tourists here now. After the Bali bomb, business has dropped dramatically. Plus, the World Cup means that the usual trekkers (mostly Europeans we are told) are not here either (apparently Aussies like to surf and Japanese like the beaches and shops). Its very picturesque here, if a little spooky at night. Mum got the heebie-jeebies being on her own in her room listening to the stange noises outside. We had a lovely evening star gazing (awesome views of the Milky Way - the best since Ladakh) and this is despite the fact that mum got a cockroah in her coffee. She was totally cool though and didn't freak out at all - although quite rightly asked for another drink. Once again, we ate more eggs than are probably good for us and prepared our gear for the morning hike up Ganung Batur.

Edi our guide arrived just before 4am and we set off in surprisingly mild conditions. Now, it has pretty much rained for most of the time we have been in Bali so we couldn't believe our luck at having such clear skies. It took us just over 2 hours to get to the first peak, and sunrise was totally rewarding with amazing views across to Gunung Agung (Bali's holiest and biggest mountain/volcano) and the mighty Rinjani in Lombok. Edi was a great guide and told us lots of interesting stuff about the geography, the different craters and previous eruptions. From the first peak we followed the trail around the main crater and then down to subsequent ones. Steamy sulphurous vents and crackling rocks impressed the children no end. We sat on the warm ground to ease our tired limbs while Edi cooked us our eggs in the ground. We completed the long trek right across the top and dropping down the slopes to the south end of the lake. we had gorgeous weather and it was probably one of the most interesting hikes we've ever done. Edi was most impressed by my mum's efforts I think and we were happy that Bail had finally wowed us (as I was starting to worry about this place and why exactly it is that people come here).

After 7 1/2 hrs, we finally reached Toya Bungka again. We ate more eggs and then set off for Padangbai on the east coast. We opted to stay at someone a bit better than basic and found ourselves great rooms (roomy, clean bathrooms, nice furniture and a fabulous pool). We had probably the best family room of our trip and a bargain at 350k rupiah (about 20 quid). As we were all so tired we stayed for an extra few nights while we contemplated our next move. The plan was to visit Nusa Penida and Lembongan - two islands to the east of Bali. I had some serious concerns about how much hassle you get here and how it may not be the island paradise we are looking for. We already knew we would go to the Gili Islands in Lombok after my mum left, but we decided maybe we should just go straight there.

Padangbai is a fairly uninteresting and drab port town - the main exit for Lombok and further east. Still lots of hassle and the beach is a pretty filthy with rubbish and seaweed everywhere. We could have headed a few kms out and found a nicer beach but instead opted for some R&R at our lovely hotel. Mum and Roisin went for massages while we all ate and swam and rested.

We left Bali on the public ferry to Lembar in Lombok. After rushing our brekkie and legging it onto the 9am ferry, we finally set off at 11am. The journey takes another 5 or so hours. It is possibly the slowest boat I have ever been on. But it's very exciting. We're off to Lombok and I've always wanted to go there. Bali without the crowds and hassle - let's hope so!