Flores to Bali, Surface Travel (not to be recommended)

We arrive in Flores' Labuan Bajo at dusk and set off to find somewhere to stay. It's a scruffy but characterful little port town, all fishy smells and bumpy roads, but lots of smiley faces. But a distinct lack of places to stay. We stay at the Hotel Gardena, in a clean bamboo family room, for $20 per night. Exhausted, we eat at their restaurant where the kids get very over excited about spaghetti and rosti (oh the little things). Chewie and Katie are going on a dive trip tomorrow. Apparently some of the best in the world. We ask the dive master if we can join the trip as snorkellers and he says of course, they are great snorkel sites too. Unfortunately, this means a 7am start. We needn't have worried about oversleeping though as the call to prayer starts at 4.30am!

I'm not going to bore you with the whole day trip but suffice to say that this was a really different experience for us. These sites are much further from the coast, just off the north of Komodo. The first drop at Crystal rock, we saw a 2 metre white tip shark that just cruised about for 5 or 10 minutes underneath us. The reef is very deep but lots to see for snorkellers too. The second drop was at Castle Rock. Another deep site and this time the reef was a good 10 metres below. We saw a couple of baby white tips but the cross currents were strong, so after a 20 minute hard swim, we gave up and let the current sweep us back to the boat. After a wonderful lunch, we snorkelled about in the bay. Chewie and I tried to follow a green turtle, much more timid than their hawksbill cousins. Lee borrowed the dive masters depth watch and practised his free diving. We reckon he's down to 18 metres now. Next stop was a strong drift dive between two islands. Really excellent marine life and good coral away from the shore. I saw a huge feather tailed blue spotted sting ray and stunning shoals of bright purple and red fish (I've forgotten the name just now). In the main drift, we swam along side giant trevellis, bigger than Tevo and Roisin, which was amazing.

We were all so tired that night. But managed to stay up for a drink with Martin and Laura, and Chewie and Katie. We gave M & L our Malarone treatment doses for malaria, as they are off to Cambodia and Laos. We have decided to head back to Bali with Chewie and Katie on the overland trip. All the seats are booked up for a week or so from here back to Denpensar. I am getting weaker and weaker, and the prospect of travelling overland further east to visit the volcano lakes at Kelimantan, is just too overwhelming. The roads are rough here and it takes two days to reach Moni, the nearest town. I'm just not strong enough to make the journey. Although the prospect of this return overland journey is a bit scary. Starting at 8am, we leave on ferry, 7 hrs to Sumbawa, then a 2 hr bemo ride to a big air con bus, then 12 hours to the west port. Another ferry, 2 hrs, to Lombok. Then 3 hrs across Lombok, then another ferry, 4-5 hrs to Bali's Padangbai, then another 2 hrs to Denpensar. Against my better judgement, I decide I have no choice but to take loperimide, a stopper. My gut pays me back ten fold some time later but at least it means I didn't poop all over the bus!

The actual journey took 37 hours. It was mostly ok aside from the horrible people on the Sumbawan bemo leg. Wherever we go in Asia, locals always make room for the children on buses. The only exception in our experience, was in Tamil Nadu in India. We can now add Sumbawa to the list. They made fun of us when Roisin was upset (charming) and even suggested that they sit on the roof! Not one person would look me in the eye when I begged them to make room, and the two german tourists were just as bad. Lee, Chewie and Katie went on the roof. I perched on a wooden block in the aisle and the kids finally squeezed into two seats that came free. When we reached the air con coach, we grabbed our numbered seats and when someone tried to move Tevo, Lee finally lost his temper and swore at them. Once they realised we weren't to be messed with, they left us alone.

We left Katie and Chewie in Mataram, Lombok where they were meant to get picked up to go to north Bali. When we didn't see them on the boat, we suspected they'd been left in the lurch. We reached Kuta at about 9pm, and after calling round over 20 hotels and guesthouses, we found one place that had one room for one night only. Gorgeous room though. Poppies Cottages are totally lush and Lee even nipped out for curry take away as a treat.

We had breakfast in bed and the hotel let the kids hang out by the pool while I went in search of a room. After 2 hours, I found us rooms at Puri Tanah Lot near Legian. Fairly clean and recently refurbished, so we stay for 2 nights. I spend most of this time at the local hospital as I need to get checked out before I travel home. It's not a good situation to be in. They want to admit me as I am badly dehydrated, anaemic and my spleen is enlarged (but they don't know why). I have an inflamed gut, maybe gastritis or ulcerative colitis after all the infections. I spend the day on a saline drip while they do lots of tests. I need an endoscopy but all I want to do is get home. Bloody insurance company want me to get treated here. They would rather I have $1500 diagnostics here than pay £400 for us to change our flights. Idiots that they are! So we manage to get one last night of luxury at Poppies Cottages before we fly to Kl tomorrow. I'll pay for it myself and then kick their arses when I get home.

Sublime Snorkelling and Dangerous Dragons!

It was finally time to leave Kuta Lombok. The children were sad to say goodbye to their new friends but Lee and I were ready for some new adventures. We had to get back to Sengiggi to return the car and meet our tour company for the boat trip to Flores. We stayed one night at Puri Bunga Cottages ($60 for a family room) – like the rest of Sengiggi, tired looking but great coast. The next morning Gana picked us up in a bemo. Turns out the boat doesn't go from Sengiggi (on Lombok's west coast) but from Labuan Lombok on the east coast; a 3 hour drive back across the island. I'm not in the best of moods having spent half the night on the loo. I am just not getting any better despite a course of antibiotics, and have lost a huge amount of weight. I spent two hours trying to make international phone calls to try and change our flights but simply could not get through to anyone. I couldn't even get a call out to Jakarta to contact Air Asia's office here. I want go home a week early so that I can get myself well before going back to work. They give me 4 months leave and I come back to go off sick – I don't think that would be fair.

Once on the bus, I think I scared some of tour group by snapping at a local for nearly breaking the guitar. I felt bad because they look like nice people and they don't know how bad I've been feeling. A really nice english lad tries to help by using his laptop to find a wifi signal for Skype. But still no luck.

We set off for Labuan Lombok in our crowded bemo and we soon make friends with Katie, from east London. Turns out the nice bloke is her boyfriend Chewie. There are going to be two boats, each with 12 passengers. They tell us we're going with the other bemo group but we beg them to let us stay with our new friends. Katie clearly has a great gift with children too, and making friends with other travellers who like kids is not a common occurrence so we stand our ground at the dock and they let us travel on the same boat together.

This is a four day trip. Today we sail to the NW coast of Sumbawa, reaching our overnight point after 8pm. Sunset was beautiful with stunning views back towards Lombok's Rinjani. We have a late dinner of spicy tempeh and veg with rice, and then try to get some sleep for our first night on a boat. The crew set sail at 3.30am so any sleep we did get was minimal. Once we are moving sleep is only something that people with sea legs have the luxury of. But this means I get to watch the sun rise and see a huge whale skull sitting on the rugged Sumbawa shore. Viewing the Nusa Tengarra from the sea is definitely the best way to explore. It's stunning. Rugged, pristine forests drip down mountain sides spilling into the bluest ocean. We arrive at Pulau Moyo, our first island stop. The reef is lovely and we spot blue spotted rays and a moray. The water is so clear and warm, it's very surreal. Then it's a swim to shore to climb up to a fresh water pool and waterfall. Now I'm starting to think I'm jinxed on these walks. I'm all set and barely on the path when a guy from the other boat comes stumbling past us, looking panicked and clearly unwell. His eyes are visibly red and swollen and he's scared. His girlfriend is trying to help him but he's stumbling blindly through the bushes, getting scratched and tripping. His girlfriend, called Merissa begs for help. He's asking for adrenaline and I realised he's having a massive allergic reaction.

I offer to help and try to get him to calm down, take deep breaths and walk slowly. We get him to shore and I start swimming to our boat, shouting to our crew to get the little boat to shore to bring him aboard. They realise what's happening and by the time I have swum to our boat they are helping him up the ladder. I lie him down and get the crew to break up some ice onto a towel to cool the welts that are swelling all over his body. I grab my first aid kit and find some prescription strength anti histamines.

I remembered that my anaesthetist brother in law, Jez, once told me it's ok to take double the dose for a first dose if you're in a lot of pain. So I assume the same applies, and give Chris two big tablets. I also find some cream for allergic hives so I get Merissa to apply it to where he's burning the most. I have to admit, I was quite scared. His mouth had swollen up like a big old grouper fish and his eyes were closing. His ears are twice their normal size (either that or he's got a best mate called Noddy). His neck, arms and body were covered in huge welts. I checked for a signal on my phone and was ready to call help. I kept an eye on his breathing and tried to keep him as calm as possible but all the time I was thinking, shit this guy's in serious trouble. Fortunately, the tablets seemed to help and he stopped swelling up. Merissa told me he's had a chest infection and that he took someone else's antibiotics. I ask Chris if this has happened before and he said he might be allergic to penicillin. I ask them if the tablets were amoxycillin. Chris looks a little sheepish. The clues in the name really. I explain to Chris what's probably happened and that the antihistamines seem to be working, so we just keep him lying down and cool, sipping some water. He's a kiwi and his other Aussie pal arrives about an hour later and in typical aussie style, rips the piss out of his deformed face. I explain that he mustn't drink with these tablets and to take another one tonight. Somehow I don't think he'll take any notice. But he is ever so grateful and offers to give me some his valuable on board beer. Martin (one of our group who I think I scared earlier) says I am an angel. I joke and say, no, just a well prepared parent with the mother of all first aid kits. I have suture kits, drip kits, all kinds of meds. But lets hope we don't need them again. But I'm glad that Martin and Laura (from Argentina and Spain) have seen another side to me and that I don't just spend all my time shouting at locals.

After more swimming and snorkelling, we set off for the next island. Our team are great. There is Carolina (Swiss) and her boyfriend from Gili Air, Afid. Martin and Laura, a beautiful couple, well travelled and clearly madly in love. Two very smiley girls from Java (how nice to see locals exploring their own beautiful country. And Chewie and Katie who we become great friends with. Chewie's a flare barman, like the guys on Britain's Got Talent (he used to work for them). They're travelling for 18mths and are on their way to Australia and New Zealand. We all get on great which is as much as you can ask for when you're living aboard a boat. Our crew are very able and hard working, and feed us exceptionally well. Although I have a bout of dysentry and feel quite weak and depleted. I start yet another course of antibiotics which seems to help a little. At one point, we see a few dolphins and then they're everywhere. We're in the middle of a feeding frenzy with huge yellowfin tuna and dolphins leaping out all around us. Truly amazing! After a lovely veg curry dinner, the crew explain that we will be travelling overnight from this evening to reach Komodo. Lee, Chewie and I stay up to watch shooting stars and what looks like a meteor (will have to ask Ben when I get back to work – huge fireball with a fiery tail that lasted for about 30 seconds then seemed to break apart).

I woke about 2am and the boat is all over the place. The bags and guitar land on us as we're thrown about. I am scared witless and realise I don't know where the life jackets are. I'm trying to plan our escape if the boat overturns but Roisin is crying and then I am too. I think that maybe we will drown. We're crossing the rough currents between Sumbawa and Komodo and I'm sure we're in trouble. The stars have disappeared behind the clouds (our navigation system) and the swells are so huge, I can't see how we're going to make it. When the sun rises, the sea seems to calm and we chug our way into one of Komodo's many coves. The crew seem to think it's hilarious. I explain to Abdullah later, that perhaps a heads up on the conditions would have been nice and also, the life jackets down in the hold are in a very stupid place. He thinks I'm just a scaredy cat westerner. I agree entirely and try to get him to understand that we don't spend time at sea like this and that some reassurance (and a life jacket next to our sleeping mats) would go a long way to improving the experience.

Everyone sets off up the rocky steep hill to get a panoramic view of west Komodo and the surrounding islands. Abdullah says flipflops will be fine. What is it with these people? After stumbling about on the hill, Roisin gives up and sits down on a rock to wait for the group to return. I try to get to the top, but everything is spinning, so I too have to sit down and rest. The views are still great and once I get my breath back, I set off back down the hill, collecting Roisin, and then back to shore. We have a nice swim while we wait for everyone to get back. Once again, I tell Abdullah he's taking unnecessary risks. A broken ankle out here, and you're in big trouble. We get our trekking shoes out for the next walk, in Komodo proper, from the National Park office. UNESCO declared this a world heritage site in the mid 90's. Much to the annoyance of local fisherman. But then the British used to keep slaves. It doesn't mean we should keep doing it! A few months ago, some illegal fisherman were shot and killed by the police. They've had less trouble with poachers since then.

We take a short trek around Komodo but don't see any dragons. Because it's such a big island, they could be anywhere. It's easier to see them on neighbouring Rinca (pronounced Rincha) as it's smaller and they like to hang out near the park office. We set off after lunch (we have yet more eggs while our friends get to eat chicken, freshly killed while we were on our trek. The poor little blighters have been in a sack since Sengiggi – mmmm I bet that meat wasn't tough at all!).

Our next stop is a remote bay on Komodo called Red Beach. So called because of the red flecks in the pure white sand. I have never seen a place like this. The coral is as pristine as it can possibly be. So colourful and so many varieties, soft and hard, with an array of marine life. This coral is flourishing right up to within a few feet of the beach. It's incredible. We snorkel for hours and we got some copies of Martin's underwater photos, which really don't capture the beauty of this place. A colleague of mine who lived in Jakarta for many years, told me there wasn't much to see at Rinca and Komodo. He described the islands as barren. I take it you don't snorkel much Tom? We saw giant puffa fish, moray, hawksbill turtle and so many fish. Chewie is a swimming encyclopaedia of fish. He wants to be a master diver, and makes a fab snorkelling companion. I've learnt so much about the different fish, trevelli, blue fin tuna, goat fish, napoleon fish, trumpet fish, clown trigger fish, box fish, fusiliers, anemone fish, the list just goes on and on.

We reluctantly drag ourselves out of the sublime water and we set off for a calm bay in Rinca where we will spend a more peaceful night. After another great meal we enjoy the last of our alcoholic booty, playing guitar and singing our favourite songs. Other boats pull alongside to enjoy the free entertainment. Turns out Abdullah's a pretty good guitarist and Katie has a great voice. It's a great night and we all get very drunk, trying not to fall off the boat on our way to bed.

I wake up as we set off at 6am. Yummy fried bananas for brekkie and I try to take in every moment of our final day at sea. It's so wonderful and I've hardly been sea sick at all. The problem is dry land now. It seems to be moving even when I'm still. Apparently it may take a few days to subside. We arrive at Rinca's park office and to Tevo's absolute delight, the Discovery Channel are here making a documentary about real life monsters. We spilt into two groups; we join the long trek group but soon regret this when we realise it's very very hot on land, and also there's a large group of dragon's hanging out by the office. This is what we came to see, so we decide to stay with the short trek group so we can stay here. One of the Discovery team is here and he's trying to get shots of the dragons fighting. It's a truly awesome and slightly scary experience.

These creatures are very dangerous and you must stay close to the ranger. Two months ago, an illegal poacher was eaten alive. A few months before that, a dragon wandered into the park office and bit the ranger. They have hundreds of bacteria in mouth and this is how they kill their prey, waiting for them to die of blood poisoning then ripping them apart. They are fearless too. They ate half a child last year while she was using the village toilet in Rinca. They regularly attack tourists who wander off from their assigned group. We stay close to our ranger. The children don't need telling twice. We take a walk up a hill that overlooks the bay and the views are just incredible. Under a lone tree, a komodo dragon dozes in the shade. We give it a wide berth. Tevo finds lots of shell fossils and the ranger explains that no-one must take anything off the island so we get some snaps.

We leave Rinca for one last snorkel stop before Flores. The island is tiny with crystal clear waters but unfortunately it is not part of the national park. Every bit of coral is destroyed. It's devastating to see and we start to head back to the boat. Chewie is also a great spotter, and he calls us over to where he has found a lone piece of coral, with two amazing lion fish. Beautiful, deadly but very docile, so we watch them fan their pretty fins as they drift out from under the coral. Then we spot a stunning family of giant cuttlefish. Watching these creatures change colour and shape was incredible. The biggest, probably the male, was at least 2 ft, with a smaller one, then two baby ones (still a foot in length). Sadly some locals having a day trip to the island, spotted us clustered around the remaining coral. One swims over, climbs onto the coral (nice) and shouts his mate to get the spear gun. We begged and pleaded for them to leave the fish. We offered them money. But no, they speared all four of these beautiful creatures, the black ink bleeding into the sea. A sad but unfortunate reality here. The sea has two functions in Indonesia. A source of food and a great big dustbin. It's a real shame because they have the best reefs in the world, but for how long?

Lovin' Lombok

We hired a car for $20 pd in Sengiggi. Now that's a bit of a weird place. It's a kind of beach resort but tired and empty looking with abandoned shops, empty cafes and tired looking hotels. On the west coast of Lombok, it's beautiful coastline. We arrived mid morning and our friend and fixer, Gana, arranged for us to rent a car. Lee haggled him down and we are now exploring Lombok without having to rely on expensive tourist shuttles or public transport (that doesn't let you explore the remote parts of the island).

From Sengiggi we drove up to the north coast, stopping for lunch at Lombok's finest hotel, The Oberoi. An expensive diversion it turned out but worth taking a peek at a beautifully designed hotel. Then further north following a road so close to the sea it felt like we were driving along the beach. Like Bali, Lombok has black sand beaches in the north. Then we turned inland and upwards to Senaru, nestled in the Rinjani foothills. This mighty volcano is almost 4km in height and has been a little active just recently. You can see the smoke spewing from one of it's newer inner cones (only a few hundred years old) around the edge of the crater lake.

Except we didn't climb up as I have been a bit sick so a 3 day hike was not really an option. Lee and the kids took a hike to the waterfalls which they said were amazing. Meanwhile I went in search of a chemist. I have had a bad chest since Kathmandu and it's just not getting better. In fact my asthma seems worse by the day. So I went in search of some prednisolone, a steroid that can help relieve the wheezing when the ventolin isn't working.

I stopped to ask someone where the pharmacy was, and he told me to follow him on his bike, then took me to a local hospital. People are like this all the time here. Always happy to help you. Makes you feel very safe even though it's so undeveloped and remote. The clinic was just great. Maybe not high tech but super clean, and where a doctor saw me immediately. I was checked over by the nurse and prescribed 3 different meds to take.

'You have bad asthma'
'Yes'
'Are you taking anti malarials?'
'No'
'Sometimes they mask malarial symptoms and bad chest could be symptom, we have two cases of malaria just now'
'But I don't have a temperature'
'Yes, you do'
'Oh, might I have malaria?'
'No, you have bad asthma'

It cost a grand total of $3! I may also have tropical sprue or 'just' gastritis but will need to get some proper tests done when I get home if I'm still crook (we've been hanging out with a lot of aussies here).

After Senaru, we drove around the black sandy north coast where the empty but well surfaced road almost seems to be on the beach. Lombok is a great place to hire a car. It's so easy to get around and there's rarely traffic outside the towns and villages. The coastal villages in the north are pretty and well kept, with a stunning Rinjani backdrop. Then as we dropped down the east coast, we could see more of Lombok's gilis (Gili means small island in Sasak, Lomboks main language). These are as yet undeveloped, so we tried to find a homestay so we could hire a boat to go snorkelling. But the ones listed in LP are closed now and the only place we found looked like it hadn't been stayed in for 5 years with cobwebs and huge spiders and more damp mattresses. I just couldn't face it nor the kids inevitable complaints so we continued down the completely empty east coast (aside from the port town at Labuan Lombok).

The SE peninsula is difficult to reach by road we were warned, so we turned west towards Praya and then south to Kuta Lombok. Nothing at all like Bali's Kuta. This coast is pristine and rugged with white sandy coves and rocky outcrops. More intrepid aussie surfers come here, so there's a few guesthouses and hotels in Kuta. As you reach the SW tip, there are more gilis, and it's a day trip from where we're staying, so we're definitely off to explore those.

As for where we're staying. What can I say? Novotel are genius. They bought a huge stretch of beach, east of Kuta, 12 years ago and built one of the most delightful 'resorts' we've ever stayed in. Lee hates resorts. They're not my favourite but sometimes, I find, a necessary break from backpacker digs. A mid range guesthouse would normally cost us about $15-20 per room in Indonesia. A treat place is normally about $50-60. Novotel's Mandalika resort is usually $120-40. We only went to have a nosey round thinking there's no way we'll be able to afford to stay there, and would we want to anyway? They have an early summer deal on, with a family room for $75 per night.
But what this includes is phenomenal! Huge buffet breakfast with an eggs, waffle and pancake station that can keep you at breakfast for hours. They serve until 10.30am and non of this clearing everything away at 10.31am. I mean you can laze around in the restaurant until much later, grazing on the 15 different kinds of doughnuts and pastries or indulge more exotic tastes (though I'm not a fan of asian food for breakfast myself - unless it's aloo paratha and curd of course). So lunch is unnecessary. Then there's the endless activities for the kids. Archery, introductory diving (in one of 3 gorgeous stone walled pools), kids club (with a Wii that Tevo helped them install), Indonesian cookery classes, woodcarving, petanque, sea kayaking, volleyball, the list just goes on and on, and it's all free. The kids absolutely love it here. As we all do. Lee says it's his favourite 'big' hotel he's ever been to.

But the best thing about this place is it's Sasak style bungalows and rooms, built to really high standards, beautifully kept gardens and just all round sympathetic design. Normally, places like this exist on an over developed coast, where everywhere looks the same and there's no nature left. This place is like a little tourist paradise, with surfing and snorkelling galore. Plus we aren't trapped here, as it's a short hop into the village for great food. There's a lovely vegetarian cafe at the top of one of the hills, with huge vistas, where you can laze about playing scrabble and scoffing spinach feta samosas or spicy potato bondas. And we have a car so we're free to explore. The villages just north of here have traditional weaving, pottery, markets and the like.

There's another huge plus to this place. The kids have made some new english speaking friends. Jessica is 11 and Thomas is nearly 10 so they each have a playmate. From Sydney, their parents are working in real estate here and so they're living at the hotel for 6 months. Jess and Tom are as overjoyed as Tevo and Roisin to have new chums, and they are inseparable already.

We have been here a couple of nights now and are having a thoroughly relaxing time (and the meds have done the trick). I feel like we're 'on holiday' in a more traditional sense than being on the move as a backpacker. Except we're a lot more scruffy than the usual clientale, but that's ok. The staff are lovely and the fearsome four have the run of the place, so Lee and I finally get some time to ourselves. Bliss for everyone!

Gili Island Dreaming (part 2)

We booked the fast boat from Bali's Benoa harbour straight to the Gili islands. Last time, I did the overland journey several times on local transport, as I escorted my mum back to the airport after her visit. I swore I wouldn't take that slow boat again. It's takes 5-7 hrs to reach Lombok from Padangbai on Bali's east coast (a 2 ½ drive north from Kuta). You then have to bargain for a bemo to take you to Bangsal in the north of Lombok, then catching the local boat to the islands. A total journey time of 12-14 hours. This time we take a 2 ½ hour fast boat straight to the islands. This boat wasn't running previously as there were no tourists. $50 each one way, half price for the kids, thank goodness.
When the boat landed on the beach at Trawangan we were a little confused as last time, boats only landed in limited places due to shallow water. Now something looks different and it's not just the strewn rubbish. As the party island of the 3 Gilis, it's clearly taking a toll. We are excited as we reach Gili Air and looking forward to seeing our friends. Sadly, the lovely Sunrise Hotel with its funky lumbung ricebarns is full except a family room at the back that we didn't like the first time we came, so we're certainly not going to like it this time. The place is looking very tired now too. Plus the prices has also gone up. From $10 per night to $25. They want $35 for the family room which is essentially the same as the other rice barns with no balcony to make room for an extra bed, leaving barely any room for luggage or legs. We stay one night and then after catching up with some old friends, move next door to Corner huts. $15 per night for a simple balconied hut with fan and flush toilet, and the luxury of fresh water showers (Sunrise like most places has salt water showers).

We notice what it is that is different. In 3 years, the sea has risen by at least a metre, maybe more. The erosion is obvious as we wander down the island. Places we used to sit, under bamboo beach shades, have washed away. The beach is significantly narrower and a bit dirtier. There has been extensive development and the number of tourists and therefore boats, coming here has vastly increased. Most places here are owned and run by locals. There's a few foreign owned outfits, making bigger developments with their air conditioned pristine bungalows but theirs lots of local businesses too. The thing about going back to somewhere you thought was just perfect is that it will never be exactly the same again. You can't recapture the past as it was or relive the same moments in time. A valuable lesson in embracing the moment and accepting change I think.

Once we settled in, we have found our favourite snorkelling spots where we dive and surface alongside hawksbill turtles, and it's great to see that areas of the coral are flourishing. The northern part of the east beach has some great coral gardens and variety of fish. Who knew trigger fish were so grumpy! Turns out they will bite you if they get really pissed off. On a snorkel trip today, we explored some fantastic coral on the southern side but quite far out; a boat would be recommendable as it's across an exposed reef so it would be a very long swim round. The currents are also very strong.

We also visited Gili Meno, the quiet island. Unfortunately, the water is just not as blue as it once was as the rising tides are bringing more seaweed (and I'm starting to wonder of there's been an oil spill out at sea and that's what dirtied the island sands with black streaks). But it's still very clear as you move away from the beach and towards the drop off. We free dive to a wreck off the west beach and Lee waved to the scuba divers, but they didn't look amused. The Meno wall, a shelf on the north side was very cloudy and had strong currents so we didn't see much there. We met several turtles around Trawangan and Meno, where we stopped for lunch and took a walk to the salt water lake in the middle of this tiny island.

We have been here 5 or 6 days now. I've lost track. We snorkel, read, swim, snooze, play guitar, trounce Lee at backgammon and snorkel some more. And eat of course. Indonesian food is great for vegetarians. For a start, they make the best tempeh we've ever tasted. You can have it fried and served with peanut sauce or in a rich garlic curry. Lee's been sampling the local fish - red, black or white snapper. Then there's the national staple of Nasi Goreng, a tasty vegetable fried rice served with a fried egg on top, or Mie Goreng, a similar dish with noodles. The kids also reckon that Corner makes the best pizzas which have a melt in your mouth paper thin base and handfuls of fresh basil. The room price includes a big brekkie of fresh fruit, tea or coffee (a quite decent Lombok ground), and either eggs or pancake or toastie of your choice. We've all lost weight, and I think in part it's due to eating a good breakfast everyday, and not eating just before bed. I like being slim again (I think I've lost at least 10 pounds) and will be making every effort not to stuff my face with bread, cheese and potatoes when I get home this time.

Our next plan is to take a local boat back to Lombok and head to Sengiggi to rent a car and stock up at the ATM. The cost of getting tourist bus transfers is extortionate ($50 just to take us to our first stopping point in the north, less than 2 hour drive – and we'd need to make 5 of these trips to do a loop around the island). The local buses are infrequent, and don't take you around to the east side. We're hoping to hire a jeep for $20 a day. Then we're going to do a 10 day tour of the main island, heading up into Ganung Rinjani's foothills (the second biggest peak in south east asia – you can't climb the peak at the moment as a newly formed volcano within the crater has been spewing lava recently) and visiting the rural and culturally rich villages around the east and south (and where if we're lucky there may be some traditional stick fighting), before heading to Kuta Lombok, a stark contrast to Bali's Kuta as it is on an undeveloped sweep of huge beaches, cliff backed hidden coves and great surf.

An international airport is currently in the pipeline for south Lombok and a Dubai developer is buying up the land to build some uber resorts. So we're going to grab some more moments in time, as it's clear from seeing the changes in the Gili islands, that word spreads fast, things move on, economies grow. Which is in no doubt a good thing for people here – it would be easy to say as a fat pocketed tourist, oh look at all the damage the development's doing to the natural environment but to be fair to the Gili islanders and their clearly wise elders, there are still no vehicles on the islands, and the reef and it's inhabitants are protected by islanders paying local fisherman not to fish here. No buildings over two storeys high, mostly made of local materials. Our carbon emissions will destroy these islands before they do. Tourism pays for the schools on this island. All businesses pay a % to the local community funding health and education. As Lee pointed out after chatting to Swambi, our guest house owner (and sometime vodka brewer), there is sense of things being done for the benefit of all the islanders, not just individuals. This was after he lamented over several trees on the beach at Sunrise being chopped down yesterday. No trees are allowed to be chopped down without the elder council's approval. Sunrise is owned by a Scottish man. He's not here right now and may well wish he wasn't when he has to face the island elders.

After ten days in Lombok, we have booked to take a 4 day boat trip from Lombok to Flores, stopping at Rinca and Komodo as well as several other great snorkelling spots along the Nusa Tenggara. The road journey across Sumbawa is legendarily bone shaking and arduous, and the boat trip lets you see the stunning coastlines without being holed up on a cramped sweaty bemo for 2 days. For $150, we think it's a bargain and once again, the kids are half price. We will sleep on deck under the stars. The kids are very excited.

Bali's Back in Town

We flew from Bangkok to Bali's Denpensar airport at an absurdly early time in the morning. Felt much worse due to an impromptu late night drinking session at a street bar, just outside our hotel on Rambutri Soi, with Tim, an expat money futures trader and the handsome Phillipe, a swiss ICOC worker (sort of like the Red Cross but more impartial). As Philippe was about to be shipped out to Iraq for a one year posting, it seemed in order that we should enjoy a good send off. As a telecommunications engineer, he has been in Darfur and Sudan for the last 2 years, with occasional forays into Somalia, Senegal and Gambia. His stories were incredible and I simply have to relay at least one of them.
He was in an ICOC marked landcruiser crossing the no man zone between North and South Sudan. There had been violent clashes and many people were killed. Part of their job was simply to bag up the bodies and make sure they are returned to the right villages. They needed to cross the zone with medical supplies to a nearby village where there were many injured people. With a local driver, Phillippe had his laptop and several large boxes of supplies. They were held up by armed bandits/mercenaries who wanted the vehicle. Phillippe jumped out with his driver, hands in the air, saying take the car, take the car, please we are just aid workers. He said it wasn't the first time it had happened so he knew the protocol was to simply hand over the vehicle with no resistance. He then explained they had medical supplies in the back and they needed to get them to this local village. The bandit leader then gave Phillippe and the driver a lift to this village with all their supplies, including his laptop. He even helped unload. He then gave Phillippe a metal bracelet and told him it was to protect him on his way. Then obviously, he took the car. But that touch of humanity amidst the chaos and killing, his stories were full of them and filled us with a warm hope despite the tragedy he's seen.
So with huge hangovers (in fact I think I was still drunk!) we flew south across the Gulf of Thailand and Java sea and landed on a much revived Bali. The last time we were here, it was so quiet and the desperation of locals was clear as they hounded us through Kuta, and when we travelled north past Ubud and on to Ganung Batur, there were simply no other tourists. It was like a ghost tourist town in places with empty guesthouses and there were certainly no fast boats to the Gili islands.
Exhausted after a 5 hour flight, carrying heavy bags in the sweaty heat, we wander around Poppies I and II looking for somewhere to stay. Everywhere that's a reasonable price and clean is full. We jump in a taxi and get him to take us up to Legian, the beach area further west from Kuta. Same story. In fact the one place we do find with rooms, where we have stayed once before, has clearly done no maintenance since then and looks more than tired. Plus it's 2 ½ times more in cost. In fact we start to find this is the case all over. The Aussies are back in town. The Bali bombers have been executed and it's clearly water under the bridge now as the streets are teeming with surfers and to our pleasant surprise, families. We find ourselves slumped over banana milkshakes in a cafe while we work out our next move. I think about the high end place of Nusa Dua about 15km from here and my friend Rita who likes to stay in places like this when she travels. All booked. Transfers pick you up and drop you. Right now, I wish myself in one of Nusa Dua's 5 star resorts.
Lee goes in search of a hotel and comes back slightly more hot and grumpy having tried 4 or 5 places without success. I remember it's bank holiday weekend at home and wondered if they have the same one's in Australia. I spot a motorbike taxi outside the cafe and ask him if he can help me find some accommodation. I take you nice place he says and worrying about his commission I tell him to just drive about and we can randomly stop. This is a terrible plan. We try 2 or 3 places and they're all scabby or full. Eventually he pleads with me to let him take me to nice place. Lots of families. His name is Ketut (all 4th born children in Bali are called Ketut by the way) and he tells me about his 6 children and growing up in Kuta. I know everywhere he says. I let him take me to the Kuta Puri Bungalows. Oh my, what an oasis of tranquillity and loveliness! So we whizz back to the cafe and Ketut sorts us a bemo to take us to our lovely new rooms.
Kuta Puri is at the beach end of Poppies I comprising of pretty Balinese bungalows and a bigger block of rooms with huge balconies set around beautifully cared for gardens and two gorgeous pools, a great restaurant and bar (cheapest happy hour in Kuta). There is even a traditional spa, and we all enjoy a well earned massage. The rooms are $60 per night including a free drink, massage and breakfast. Our one night stay turned into 3 nights but we told ourselves we'd be in beach huts and homestays from here on in, so a little luxury was most welcome.
Plus Tevo and Roisin decide it's time to catch some waves body boarding on Kuta. They have great fun, while I sunbathe and counted that a street hawker approaches me every 10-14 seconds. I employ my indian subcontinent head wobble to great effect. No need for eye contact. No talking. The unsaid message is read and understood. Btw I was reading a great book whilst soaking up the rays, Rohindra Mistry's A Fine Balance – just breathtaking!

Leaving

Exhausted but exhilarated we stayed in Pokhara for a couple more nights in a great room at the Panorama Hotel, with two huge windows facing north to Macchepuchhre (occasionally revealing a side view of it's magnificent fishtail) and east to Annapurna II. If you sit on the hotel's front balcony, you can see Dhualagiri on a clear morning. After a sweltering day with no electricity to enjoy the relief of a fan, the night brought a thunderous storm lighting up the sky, and in the morning revealed such magnificent peaks. I can see why people love it here.

We return to Kathmandu on a brighter cooler day and go straight to Blue Horizon guest house. The friends I bumped into at Bouddhanath recommended it and I guessed they were probably recommended to go there by other friends from the Manchester Buddhist Centre. It is a gorgeous spot, with huge windowed rooms, potted roof terraces and pretty gardens. Right next to the Himalayan Meditation Centre. Definitely a good vibe. With the added bonus of Himalaya Java at the corner of the lane, a cracking breakfast cafe frequented by NGOs and expats. But Bijay does want to know why we haven't come 'home'.

We sent home a load of trekking gear and some presents, so we are now super light travellers. Pricey postage but then it was 17kg in total! We spent the next couple of evenings hanging out at Parina's & Bijay's apartment. Parina cooked us a stunning dhaal baat with a special fish stew. The next day I went in search of english cheese and found a nice lancashire cheddar and some ciabbatta. I made macaroni cheese and bruschetta with coriander and chilli. Lee made some mash potato on the side as Bijay says our mash is the best he's ever tasted. We explain how we overcook the spuds, then leave to sit for 5 minutes before mashing – and that we never put sugar in it! His favourite was a vegetable pie topped with mash, I made when we had the apartment. Parina's says she's going to buy an oven so she can make shepherd's pie. I warned them that eating too many pies, as we so often do, makes you fat!

After a farewell brunch at Java, and a sad good bye to Parina, Biz escorts us to the airport for our flight to Bangkok. We're going to miss our friends very much but we have a permanent reminder of our time in Nepal, as I have a new tattoo and Lee has his first. I have a Tibetan Om on my wrist and Lee has our names in Nepali across his chest. Excellent job Biz, and healing nicely thanks.

Pokhara & Rafting the Kali Gandaki

Having had such a fantastic time rafting and camping the Bhote Koshi, we decided to take our friends Parina and Bijay to raft the Kali Gandaki. My friend Parina is a workaholic, incredibly committed to her work, but a workaholic all the same. They never get opportunities to do the things we do when we're here, such as experiencing the joy of rafting Nepal's rivers. A couple of days away from the harsher realities of life in this country, I knew it would be amazing for them. Parina took a little convincing, but we assured her the rafting team had amazing safety standards and they would look after her as a non-swimmer. Bijay didn't need any convincing and travelled with us across to Pokhara. We spent a day chillin in Pokhara, rowing around the lake and fishing.

Got there on a very comfortable tourist bus (500 roops) although there was an old guy sat behind me, with his wife and daughter and son in law. He just kept exclaiming very loudly, LOOK MARGERY, LOOK, mangoes, or look look a red sari, LOOK Margery, rice fields, oh yes. I enjoyed his child-like running commentary, remembering what my mum said to me about her trip to North America last year. Alaska was beautiful but I had no-one to say, look how beautiful it is, and share that moment. After 4 hours I put on my Ipod. By the way, he sounded just like that actor in Fawlty Towers episode The Anniversary, where Basil pretends Sybil is ill. The husband of Una Stubbs' character, with the very amusing voice, it was him I swear. Sib ill, eh Basil , Sib ill. Except it wasn't him of course.

Parina was planning to come the following day, but a very sad thing happened. A 17 year old girl, married with a baby and unfortunately a drug problem, but also one of Dristi's service users, set herself on fire about ten days earlier. She died at 5am on 15th May. Parina stayed behind to sort her affairs and raise funds for her hospital bill. There are several of us who will ensure the baby is supported for the rest of her childhood. The young women has a sister who may come to Kathmandu and look after the child. But she will need a job and support. Education is relatively expensive here. Parina's dream is to open a home where women and children can live together, learn new skills, grow crops, produce handicrafts, perhaps in the Terai where land is more fertile. Definitely away from Kathmandu.

Parina finally arrived and we set off early the next day. We drove to the drop in point on a smaller bus, and missed the breezy jolliness of our previous transport. Also, the bigger the vehicle, the less you are thrown around on bumpy roads. Although these roads are tarmac' ed. Rather novel if slightly scary on twisty mountain roads.

We rafted for three days, camping two nights on river side beaches. There is no road support on this trip. We leave the highway, with two rafts – one for us and a bit of gear and then the main gear raft. We are joined by an American, Taylor, a rafting guide passing through who's joined the support team to get a free ride. At first Parina is still nervous at first but a few rapids in and she and Biz are having the time of their lives, as are we. We had a full on bounce and flip over at one point which scared a few people but we were all fine and we were lucky to have such a pro team. It took Parina a while to recover from the shock, but later we cajouled her into having a swim to build her confidence in the life jacket. I think it worked. We have a lovely camp on the first night but late evening rain continues through the night getting us all a bit soaked – but who cares – we're rafting!

We hit the water late, just before noon and the sun greets us by mid afternoon, as we have an awesome time over some great rapids. so the team dry off the tents while we eat lunch. Madoh catches fish with Bijay's help (19 year old rescue Kayaker not our Biz). Big bony beggars they are. But everyone enjoys them for supper. Tevo builds a roaring fire, after Biz rafts over the river (in the dark!) and collects wood and some Rocksi from the local village. Fabulous evening camp with bellies full of tasty dahl bhaat.

The last day of rafting and due to a dam which has killed the current, we hitch a ride on a passenger boat that chugs us upriver to our pick up point. One more tasty buffet lunch, and we head back to Pokhara. Four hours in blistering heat. Hmmm, can we get back in the river now please! May is a time to climb high or raft rivers in Nepal, it's just very very hot.

Back in PK, Biz and Parina hitch a lift back to Kathmandu with the team in the morning. We stay another night to rest.